For a taste of southern home cooking in Los Angeles, look no further than Dulan’s on Crenshaw. Here at this brightly lit and simply appointed restaurant, owner Greg Dulan follows his father Adolf “King of Soul Food” Dulan’s footsteps, delivering delightful down-home fare that hits the spot like nothing else can. Adolf, by the way, owns the equally excellent Dulan’s Soul Food Kitchen in Inglewood.

Dulan’s is laid out a bit like a cafeteria, with Styrofoam trays and steam tables at the front. While all menu items are available a la carte, most diners choose a “meat and two” combination that comes with two sides and two cornbread muffins.

The roster of proteins includes fried, baked, and smothered chicken, fried and baked fish, oxtails, short ribs, smothered pork chops, and meatloaf.  The selection of sides includes macaroni and cheese, two types of greens (collard and cabbage), candied yams, cornbread dressing, red beans, rice, mashed potatoes, corn and okra, black-eyed peas, and potato salad.

While my lunchtime companions couldn’t resist the fried chicken, the meatloaf ($10.95) was calling my name. Served smothered with softened onions and a ketchup-spiked gravy, the meatloaf had a homey and hearty way about it. I was pleased with my selection. (more…)