I procured some Sichuan peppercorns following our Chengdu travels two Septembers ago, but left them untouched in the cupboard until stumbling upon this recipe for Sesame Noodles with Chili Oil and Scallions in the June 2013 issue of Bon Appétit.

What made these noodles something to talk about was the chili oil made from scratch with fresh scallions, crushed red pepper flakes, and tongue-quivering peppercorns. Mixed with tahini, rice vinegar, and soy sauce, the chili oil packed enough heat to make us sweat and imparted the kind of nuanced flavor that kept our chopsticks coming back for more.

I prepared these noodles to accompany a Chinese Wood Ear Mushroom Salad, because man cannot survive on fungus alone. Sharing similar flavor profiles, the two dishes complemented each other and made for a perfectly satisfying vegetarian lunch. Note to self: add broccoli, eggplant, and tofu to the noodles next time around for a well-balanced, one-dish meal.

For the chili oil

• 4 scallions, whites and greens separated, thinly sliced
• 1/2 cup vegetable oil
• 1 tablespoon crushed red pepper flakes
• 2 teaspoons Sichuan pepper, coarsely ground

For the noodles

• 24 ounces Chinese wheat noodles (or spaghetti)
• Kosher salt
• 1/2 cup tahini (sesame seed paste)
• 1/2 cup unseasoned rice vinegar
• 6 tablespoons reduced-sodium soy sauce
• 4 teaspoons toasted sesame oil
• 2 teaspoons sugar

Cook scallion whites, vegetable oil, red pepper flakes, sesame seeds, and pepper in a small saucepan over low heat, stirring occasionally, until oil is sizzling and scallions are golden brown, 12–15 minutes.

Let chili oil cool in the saucepan or in a bowl.

Meanwhile, cook noodles in a large pot of salted boiling water until al dente; drain. Rinse under cold water and drain well.

Whisk together tahini, vinegar, soy sauce, sesame oil, sugar, and 4–6 tablespoons chili oil (depending on desired heat) in a large bowl; season with salt. Add noodles and toss to coat.

Top with scallion greens and drizzle with more chili oil.

Serves 6.

Recipe modified from Bon Appétit, June 2013.

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Noodles! And lots of them. Get into the kitchen:

• Bolognese Sauce with Cloves and Cinnamon
• Braised Rabbit with Pappardelle
• Dorie Greenspan’s Beggar’s Linguine – Pasta with Brown Butter, Dried Fruits, and Nuts
• Fusilli in Cream Sauce with Peas and Bacon
• Noodles with Squid and Vegetables
• Nui Lòng – Grandpa’s Spaghetti with Offal
• Pappardelle in Lemon Cream Sauce with Peas and Smoked Salmon
• Pasta alla Norma
• Pasta with Caramelized Onions & Blue Cheese
• Pasta with Corn, Burrata, Pancetta, and Chilies
• Pasta with Eggs and Pork Floss
• Pasta with Three Peas
• Red Curry Peanut Noodles
• Scott Conant’s Spaghetti with Tomato and Basil
• Seared Gnocchi with Green Olive Sauce
• Skillet Noodle and Sausage Supper
• Soba Noodles with Kale, Tofu, and Furikake
• Spaghetti alla Carbonara
• Vegan Pesto Pasta
• Whole Wheat Gnocchi