Just before the citywide lockdown, my girlfriend Liana and I feasted at Chad Colby’s Antico. Our meal began with a parade of nibbles — from anchovies on toast to runny ricotta cheese and grilled delicata squash — followed by fetching pastas, meat, fish, and ice creams. I waddled out of the restaurant eager to do it all over again soon. In the weeks that followed, however, the coronavirus struck and plans for return visits had to be postponed.
Fortunately, the team at Antico pivoted in brilliant fashion as the city locked down, converting into a focaccia pizza and ice cream operation seemingly overnight.
After weeks of pining for a taste, The Astronomer, June, and I made the trek to Antico on a Sunday afternoon. We placed our order and paid over the phone, and brought the two pizzas and two pints of ice cream home to eat.
For June: an entire cheese pizza with tomato, mozzarella, and Parmesan ($25). She ate the giant pie all week long and enjoyed every single slice.
The Astronomer and I split the Pineapple Express with tomato, mozzarella, pineapple, bacon, and pickled jalapeños ($35). It hit just the right savory-sweet-spicy notes, all on a wonderfully crisp base with the plushest of innards.
It’s hard to tell in photos just how hefty a slice is—I was fully sated after one voluminous serving.
For dessert, a caffeine-forward pint of espresso cookies and cream ($16)…
…and an ultra-creamy pint of orange cookies swirled with marmalade.
Until its dining room reopens, Antico fans will have to make do with taking some of the best pizza and ice cream in town to-go. Not a bad deal at all.
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Antico
4653 Beverly Boulevard
Los Angeles, CA 90004
Phone: 323-510-3093
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