Soup dumplings are synonymous with Shanghai, so it was imperative that we indulge in more than a few steamers full during our stay in the city.

Our first glimpse of the fiercely competitive local xiao long bao scene was at Jia Jia Tang Bao, a beloved institution known for its impeccably constructed steamed-to-order dumplings. Locals and visitors alike gather here for dependably delicious, albeit a touch expensive, xiao long bao.

Inside this no-frills, fluorescent-lit shop located just north of People’s Square, orders are taken at the front counter (no English is spoken, but there’s a translated menu) and dumplings are delivered tableside. The selection depends on the time of day. Since we dined during the evening hours, a few varieties, including the ever-popular crab and pork dumplings, were no longer available.

We had read on various websites and travel publications that the restaurant usually boasts long lines, but fortunately there were none during our visit.

Shredded ginger in vinegar, an essential xiao long bao accoutrement, was available for a nominal fee. Score one for the San Gabriel Valley’s XLB joints, where this condiment is always plentiful and free.

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I secretly wished throughout our travels in China that some kindhearted, English-speaking local would invite The Astronomer and me to their home for dinner. There’s nothing quite like a home-cooked meal, especially while on the road, but alas (and unsurprisingly), my fantastic pipe dream never came true.

Instead, we sought out Lánxīn Cāntīng, a hole-in-the-wall located in the French Concession, for a more-accessible taste of Shanghainese home cooking.

Family-run restaurants specializing in simple local fare have grown increasingly rare here in recent years, even though demand remains sizable. That, coupled with the diminutive size of the restaurant, meant that we endured an hour-long wait for a table this evening, far and away the longest line of the entire trip.

As with most of the restaurants that we frequented in China, Lánxīn Cāntīng did not have an English-language menu. We resorted to pointing and smiling to communicate our preferences, as well as showing photos of specific dishes to our server. The former method was much more successful…

Nearly every table in the place was digging into platters heaped with the most gorgeous braised pork accented with green chilies, so we had to have some too. Served at room temperature, the bite-sized belly morsels melted in our mouths, treating our taste buds to a sweet and savory symphony.

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