Gastronomy Blog by Cathy Chaplin

Restaurant Review

28 Dec 2012

Phnom Penh Noodle Shack – Los Angeles (Long Beach)

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Dining at Phnom Penh Noodle feels like sitting down for a meal at good friend’s home. It might have something to do with the converted house the restaurant is located in, but mostly it’s the warm service and soulful cooking that put The Astronomer and me completely at ease.

The Tan family has been dishing up Cambodian-style noodles, porridge, and fried breads in this quiet building on Long Beach’s Cherry Avenue since 1985. These days, the restaurant is mostly run by the proprietors’ cheery brood, a passionate bunch poised to take over the day-to-day operations in the coming years.

The Phnom Penh noodles are a must-order for first-timers and regulars alike. Each bowl is layered with springy rice noodles, tail-on shrimp, porky odds and ends, fried garlic, and fresh cilantro, and can be served ladled with scalding hot soup or “dry” with a bowl of broth on the side.

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Restaurant Review

26 Dec 2012

The Serving Spoon – Los Angeles (Inglewood)

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Opened in 1982 by Harold E. Sparks, The Serving Spoon is a full-service diner serving Southern classics in a brightly-lit and energetic room. The restaurant, by the way, is named after a diner that was featured on the soap opera “All My Children,” Mr. Sparks’ favorite afternoon indulgence. Today the restaurant is run by his daughter and son-in-law.

While the menu reads as nearly identical to those at other soul food spots in town, one whiff of the kitchen’s cooking and I understood immediately that there was something extra special happening here.

Take for instance “Cookie’s Wings & Waffle,” the finest pairing of chicken and waffles that I’ve ever encountered. The well-seasoned cluck, expertly fried and outstandingly juicy, came together like a dream with the cinnamon-dusted waffle, which hit an intriguing savory note. Eaten in tandem, the flavors were rounded and harmonious—a thrilling combination of sweet, salty, and umami.

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Restaurant Review

24 Dec 2012

Sanuki No Sato – Los Angeles (Gardena)

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Named after an old Japanese province on the island of Shikoku with the same boundaries as modern Kagawa Prefecture, Sanuki No Sato is famous for its udon, chubby wheat-based noodles served hot or cold.

The 20-year-old dining room feels as sturdy as ever, while service is swiftly executed by a team of kimono-donning waitresses.

The menu here features numerous small plates and sushi, but we zeroed in on Chef Moriaki Miyahira’s spectacularly slurp-worthy udon. To truly appreciate the noodles’ texture and nuances, I insisted on a bowl of the cold preparation. As soul-warming and comforting as noodle soups can be, hot broth tends to diminish udon’s impressive bite.
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