Gastronomy Blog by Cathy Chaplin

Restaurant Review

22 Feb 2012

Tar & Roses – Los Angeles (Santa Monica)

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Tar & Roses has been humming and happening ever since it opened just under a month ago. Named after the tasting notes characteristic of wine made from Nebbiolo grapes, Tar & Roses serves up big and small plates in a lively neighborhood setting.

I came in for dinner last week with my friends and fellow food bloggers Darin and Esi. As guests of the restaurant, we were completely spoiled by chef and owner Andrew Kirschner—he sent out way too much food and we in turn ate more than our fill! It was a delightful evening, one that left me waddling out the front door with a smile on my face and doggie bags in hand.

Prior to opening Tar & Roses, Chef Kirschner spent the last decade honing his craft at Joe’s in Venice, Chadwick in Beverly Hills, Table 8 in West Hollywood, and Wilshire in Santa Monica. He was named “Best New Chef in 2008” by Angeleno magazine.

Chef Kirschner’s “modern and rustic” menu is divided into four sections: Snacks, Small, Veggies, and Large. There’s nothing I love more than grazing over half a dozen plates rather than sticking to a single main course. The menu here is just my speed.

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20 Feb 2012

Shaanxi Gourmet – Rosemead

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It’s been almost four years since The Astronomer and I visited Xi’an, the central Chinese city famous for its terracotta soldiers and Islamic cuisine. However, the moment we stepped foot into Rosemead’s Shaanxi Gourmet, our dormant memories came rushing back. With its guardsmen-flanked entrance, Chinese-only menu, and homey service, Shaanxi Gourmet transported us back to Xi’an for one night.

We were lucky enough to have the Kung Food Panda in our company this evening, which meant that the Chinese-only menu wasn’t a problem. For those dining without a Chinese speaker in tow, the restaurant’s walls are helpfully plastered with photographs of the most popular dishes.

To start, we dug into (clockwise from top left) shredded potatoes, congealed pig’s ears, and beef shank marinated in chili oil. The silky spuds were the surprise hit of the trio. Who knew raw potatoes could be so refreshing?

We also tried two versions of cold noodles. The one I liked best came simply dressed with chile, Sichuan pepper, and vinegar, which highlighted the noodles’ angular shape and springy texture.

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17 Feb 2012

Hungry Cat – Los Angeles (Hollywood)

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Weekend brunches and seafood shacks are two of my favorite things, so it was only a matter of time before I made my way to Hungry Cat. A collaboration between Maryland native Chef David Lentz and his wife Chef Suzanne Goin, the restaurant is famous for impeccably fresh seafood, served without fuss, just like they do back east.

The concept has been so well received that the restaurant has opened outlets in Santa Barbara and Santa Monica in addition to its original Hollywood location where I dined.

With the restaurant located on an uber-touristy stretch in Hollywood, I found it impossible to channel the seaside spirit. Still, the restaurant tried its best to evoke that eastern seaboard ambiance with fresh lobsters and oysters on display over ice and pictures of cats eating the day’s catch.

My friend Amy and I shared a selection of oysters to start. With three varieties on deck this afternoon, I decided to go for one of each—Kumiai from Mexico, Chincoteague from Virginia, and Malpeque from Prince Edward Island, Canada.

The oysters were shucked to order and served with lemon wedges, a red wine vinegar, a rice wine vinegar with ginger, and cocktail sauce. Slurping these briny bivalves instantly transported me somewhere beachy.

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