May 2011

Sunday Brunch at Scarpetta – Los Angeles (Beverly Hills)

Sunday Brunch at Scarpetta - Beverly Hills

The last time I indulged in a lavish Sunday brunch spread, I wound up in the fetal position in the hotel lobby. The Astronomer fared slightly better and only popped a button off his pants. We’re normally rational and quite levelheaded, but for the life of us, we couldn’t exhibit good behavior when faced with such a stupendous buffet. You’d do the same in an all-you-can-eat foie gras ice cream sandwich situation too, trust me.

A couple of Sundays ago, I was once again confronted with a brunch spread so awesome that it threatened to compromise my reasonable nature. This time around it was at Scarpetta, Chef Scott Conant‘s modern Italian restaurant tucked inside the Montage Beverly Hills.

Sunday Brunch at Scarpetta - Beverly Hills

I, along with my partner in crime Diana, were guests of the hotel this morning during the debut of Sunday brunch. We were seated on the cusp of the dining room with an idyllic view overlooking the Beverly Canon Gardens. Mimosas were quick to arrive, which we appreciated greatly. Cheers to good food and good friends.

Sunday Brunch at Scarpetta - Beverly Hills

Before piling our plates full of this and that and everything in between, we strolled through the open kitchen to survey what was cookin’. We spied a crudo and shellfish station, cured meats, a pasta station, an egg station, waffles and pancakes from the griddle, a carving station, and a fruit station. Outside the kitchen was an impressive display of cheeses and sweets. [See the complete menu here.] It was a sensational selection of dishes and we were excited to get started.

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May 2011

Huckleberry Cafe & Bakery – Los Angeles (Santa Monica)

Huckleberry - Santa Monica

The first time I stepped into Huckleberry Cafe & Bakery, I turned my heels and walked out after thirty seconds. I had just moved to Los Angeles from Vietnam a few months prior and was unaccustomed to seeing baked goods priced at such a premium. Fist-sized plum crostatas were going for $7, while itty bitty cupcakes came in at $2. This serious case of sticker shock, not to mention the distance between my home and Santa Monica, kept me away from this adorable establishment for nearly two years.

A few Saturdays ago, I finally returned to Huckleberry for brunch along with The Astronomer, Laurie, and Bex. This time around, all of the prices appeared quite normal to me, signalling that I had finally gotten over my dong complex. Thank goodness.

Huckleberry - Santa Monica

The brunch time protocol entailed waiting in an intimidatingly long line, placing our orders, and being seated swiftly by a dining room attendant. Not too long after we were seated at a table, the food arrived.

Huckleberry - Santa Monica

Bex’s duck hash with sunny side up eggs ($12.50) came highly recommended by friends and trusty news sources, but it turned out to be the lone flop of the day. The scraggly pieces of duck were under-seasoned and dry, while the eggs were overdone and not runny enough for our liking. Fortunately, there was a bottle of Tapatio on hand to give the hash a much needed boost. Still, the dish was rather disappointing this morning.

Laurie arrived a little later and ordered the Brussels sprout hash (not pictured). It wasn’t as sexy as the duck hash on paper, but its flavors were more cohesive and balanced.

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May 2011

Bò Bía – Vietnamese Jicama, Carrot, Chinese Sausage, Egg, and Dried Shrimp Rolls

Bò Bía – Vietnamese Jicama and Chinese Sausage Rolls with Hoisin Dipping Sauce

The second part of The Astronomer’s anniversary present came nearly two weeks after the first. I had originally planned to deliver both rice paper wrapped-delights simultaneously, but it turned out to be too much food and effort for only two mouths. Also, we had a ridiculous amount of leftovers from our ten-course banquet bonanza, so it was just as well that I held off on making bò bía for a little while.

Whereas The Astronomer loves gỏi cuốn most, I’ve always been partial to these lesser-known rolls filled with jicama, carrots, thin egg ribbons, Chinese sausages, and dried shrimp. The dipping sauce is identical in both situations, but the flavor profiles are completely different. While gỏi cuốn is mostly subdued save for the bites with fresh mint and garlic chives, bò bía brings bold flavors and interesting textures from start to finish.

This recipe comes from my aunt Tina, my family’s designated bò bía specialist. I grew up eating her rolls at family gatherings and have been meaning to learn how to make them for years. It’s true that bò bía contains a lot of different ingredients, but the only time-consuming and tedious step is julienning the jicama and grating the carrots. A finely sharpened mandoline slicer is extremely helpful, as well as a diligent sous chef. Once I got over this initial hurdle, the rolls came together simply, easily, and damn tastily.

  • 1 large jicama (or 2 medium-sized), julienned
  • 2 large carrots (or 3 medium-sized), grated
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 6 eggs
  • Non-stick cooking spray
  • 5 Chinese sausage links
  • 4 ounces dried shrimp
  • 4 garlic cloves, minced
  • 1 head red leaf lettuce, rinsed and de-ribbed
  • 1 package rice paper

Bò Bía – Vietnamese Jicama and Chinese Sausage Rolls with Hoisin Dipping Sauce

For the slaw, combine the carrots, jicama, and salt in a large pot. Cook over medium heat until the jicama and carrots have softened, but still retain a bit of crunchiness, approximately 15 minutes.  Set aside.

Bò Bía – Vietnamese Jicama and Chinese Sausage Rolls with Hoisin Dipping Sauce

For the egg ribbons, beat the eggs in a large bowl using a fork or whisk until they are mostly uniform in color.

Using a large, non-stick skillet over medium heat, pour in 1/3 of the egg mixture and give it a good swirl so that it spreads out thinly across the entire pan. Once the bottom side has set, run a spatula underneath the omelet and flip it to cook the other side. Repeat this step two more times for the remaining eggs. Set the finished omelets aside to cool. [Note: a thin coating of non-stick cooking spray is a good idea if your pan is weathered.]

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