Apr 2011

Bonnie Jean’s Soul Food Cafe – San Diego

Bonnie Jean's Soul Food Cafe - San Diego

I had a serious craving for fried chicken while visiting my family in San Diego last month. Following back-to-back weeks of eating deep-fried poultry on the regular [See: Ad Hoc, The Fremont Diner, and the Ludo Truck], my stomach was going through withdrawals and jonesing for another hit. A quick Internet search for “San Diego’s best fried chicken” pointed me to Bonnie Jean’s Soul Food Cafe, a no-frills establishment specializing in homey Southern fare.

The Astronomer and I paid Bonnie Jean a visit on a gray Sunday afternoon. We were joined by fellow fried chicken lovers, Cousins Jimmy, Tannia, and Phil, as well as my mama.

Bonnie Jean's Soul Food Cafe - San Diego

In addition to barbecued ribs and fried chicken, Bonnie Jean’s also served a couple of soul food dishes that I’d never before encountered at a restaurant, namely chitterlings and slow-cooked oxtails. Since my mind had long ago settled on fried chicken, a return visit to sample more of the diverse menu is definitely in order.

Bonnie Jean's Soul Food Cafe - San Diego

Cousin Jimmy sipped on several glasses of tooth-achingly sweet grape Kool Aid ($2.25) throughout the meal. The rest of us happily drank water.

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Apr 2011

Rustic Canyon – Los Angeles (Santa Monica)

Rustic Canyon - Santa Monica

When The Astronomer’s family came to town last month for a short vacation, we made sure to fill their days with amazing local food and quintessentially L.A. activities. In addition to showing them the La Brea Tar Pits, the Santa Anita Racetrack, the Santa Monica Pier, and the San Gabriel Mountains, we also introduced them to half a dozen of our favorite eateries.

We dined at Mama’s Lu, Golden Deli, and Daikouya, brunched at Canele, and ice creamed at Carmela. For our designated “fancy” dinner out on the town, The Astronomer and I reserved a table for five at Rustic Canyon Wine Bar & Seasonal Kitchen.

Rustic Canyon - Santa Monica

Opened by restaurateur Josh Loeb, Rustic Canyon serves a seasonally driven menu that changes regularly depending on what is produced by local farmers, ranchers, and fishermen. The kitchen is headed by Chef Evan Funke, while desserts are expertly handled by Pastry Chef Zoe Nathan.

Rustic Canyon - Santa Monica

We happened to dine on “Burger and Beer Mondays,” a weekly tradition where Chef Funke adds two innovative burgers to the menu. While perusing the evening’s selections, we nibbled on green olives perfumed with thyme and lemon zest.

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Apr 2011

The “Perfect” Chocolate Chip Cookie

New York Times Chocolate Chip Cookies

A few weeks ago, I received a review copy of Maida Heatter’s Cookies from the good folks at Andrew McMeel Publishing. The soft-covered tome contained an extensive collection of unique and homey recipes curated by Ms. Heatter, “the Julia Child of desserts.” Reading through hundreds of pages of delectable creations, I unsurprisingly developed an intense hankering for freshly baked chocolate chip cookies. I can be so very predictable sometimes.

Ironically, the cookie bible did not contain a single straightforward chocolate chip cookie recipe. I could’ve baked “Extra-Bittersweet Chocolate Chunk Monster Cookies” or “Key West Chocolate Treasures,” but I desired something simple and soulful, and no fancy substitute would do.

To cure my very specific cookie craving, I turned to an article published in the New York Times in 2008 about the quest for the “perfect” chocolate chip cookie. The promise of perfection motivated me to go through the trouble of procuring bread flour, bittersweet chocolate disks, and French sea salt. Not to mention, the dough needed to rest in the fridge for 36 hours. Though not technically difficult, it was easily the most high-maintenance cookie I’d ever attempted.

After everything was sifted, creamed, mixed, portioned and baked, I was left with a dozen and a half really amazing cookies. As promised, the exterior was golden and crisp, while the interior was slightly gooey and stratified with chocolate. The flakes of salt atop each cookie kept the sweetness in check and added depth of flavor. It was the most perfect chocolate chip cookie I’d ever eaten.

  • 2 cups minus 2 tablespoons (8 1/2 ounces) cake flour
  • 1 2/3 cups (8 1/2 ounces) bread flour
  • 1 1/4 teaspoons baking soda
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons coarse salt
  • 2 1/2 sticks (1 1/4 cups) unsalted butter
  • 1 1/4 cups (10 ounces) light brown sugar
  • 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (8 ounces) granulated sugar
  • 2 large eggs
  • 2 teaspoons natural vanilla extract
  • 1 1/4 pounds bittersweet chocolate disks or fèves, at least 60 percent cacao content
  • Sea salt

New York Times Chocolate Chip Cookies

Sift flours, baking soda, baking powder and salt into a bowl. Set aside.

New York Times Chocolate Chip Cookies

Using a mixer fitted with paddle attachment, cream butter and sugars together until very light, about 5 minutes. Add eggs, one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Stir in the vanilla. Reduce speed to low, add dry ingredients and mix until just combined, 5 to 10 seconds.

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