Gastronomy Blog by Cathy Chaplin

Now Closed

24 Nov 2009

Don Chow Tacos – Los Angeles

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After filling up on Japanese-Peruvian fare at Lomo Arigato and digging into Indian street food at India Jones Chow Truck, The Astronomer and I dashed over to Don Chow Tacos for a taste of Chinese-Mexican fusion.

Dominic Lau and Lawrence Lie launched Don Chow earlier this year following the tremendous success of Kogi. Both gentlemen continue to hold onto their daytime gigs and view the truck as merely a vehicle for good eats and good fun. From Kung Pao chicken tacos to “chimales” (Chinese Tamales), Don Chow offers a synthesis of cultures so unmistakably Californian that Alice Waters should consider redefining the genre of “California cuisine”.

After seeing D takes a B‘s tasty plate of carne asada chow fun, I decided to order an equally fabulous heap of the lengua variety. The $5 plate of noodles weighed close to a pound and contained tender nuggets of tongue, tangled strands of rice noodles, diced tomatoes, and shredded iceberg lettuce. I liked the tongue quite a bit, but the highlight of the dish for me was the noodles’ slight smokiness, imparted by a solid wokin’. I highly recommend sharing the chow fun with a friend or two because a pound of noodles ain’t no joke and the flavors can grow dull after the twentieth bite.

Follow Don Chow Tacos on Twitter @donchowtacos.

POWER RANKINGS

India Jones Chow Truck > Dim Sum Truck > World Fare Bustaurant < Border Grill Truck > Cool Haus > Lomo Arigato > Don Chow > Kogi > Marked 5 > Dosa Truck > Phamish

Restaurant Review

23 Nov 2009

India Jones Chow Truck – Los Angeles

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Since I’m only able to satisfy my curiosity and appetite for gourmet meals-on-wheels once a month at Art Walk, I must make a conscious effort not to go overboard at any one truck. After finishing off the lomo saltado at Lomo Arigato, The Astronomer and I sought out Indian street food at India Jones Chow Truck.

Similar to Border Grill Truck, India Jones was launched by a seasoned restaurant professional. Chef Sumant Pardal hails from a family of restaurateurs in Jaipur, India. He’s opened twelve restaurants in Los Angeles, including Tufaan, Tiger Lily, and East India Grill. The excitement and fervor that Kogi garnered with its brand of Mexican-Korean fusion inspired Chef Pardal to hit the road with India Jones last August.

Chef Pardal specializes in Punjabi cuisine and considers butter chicken and lamb biriyani to be his signature dishes. The menu at India Jones features frankies, parathas (Indian flat bread), curries, and a selection of daily specials. Each offering is totally authentic and designed to be easily transportable.

The Astronomer and I started off with a mango and jicama salad ($3). The little plastic container was brimming with cubes of ripened mango and slightly softened jicama. We couldn’t quite put our fingers on what made the vinaigrette sing, but the amalgam of flavors was really superb and refreshing.

To accompany our lovely salad, we shared a most appealing paneer frankie ($3.50). According to Chef Pardal, frankies are a very popular street food in India. The frankies served on board India Jones are wrapped in a warm, crisp, and golden paratha. The Astronomer and I rank paneer toward the top of our list of favorite cheeses, and the plentiful cubes in our frankie did not disappoint. I can see why these skinny Indian burritos have become India Jones’ best-sellers. Simply delightful!

Follow India Jones Chow Truck on Twitter @indiajonesct.

POWER RANKINGS

India Jones Chow Truck > Dim Sum Truck > World Fare Bustaurant < Border Grill Truck > Cool Haus > Lomo Arigato > Don Chow > Kogi > Marked 5 > Dosa Truck > Phamish

Now Closed

21 Nov 2009

Lomo Arigato – Los Angeles

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I love the Los Angeles mobile food scene. Sure, the food can be hit or miss and the lines can be alarming, but I’m a sucker for entrepreneurial ventures, especially of the edible variety. The only beef I have with the movement is its extreme bias toward The Westside of the city. Those of us who dwell east of the 5 must hoof it across town to partake in the fun or resign ourselves to weeping over our Twitter feeds. I’d willingly give up the Rose Parade in exchange for some meals-on-wheels affection!

On the second Thursday of every month, something downright magical happens—all of the city’s gourmet roach coaches roll into downtown Los Angeles for the Art Walk. Downtown isn’t exactly Pasadena, but it is definitely closer to home than Venice, so I’ll take what I can get.

The first truck that The Astronomer and I visited on a recent Art Walk venture was Lomo Arigato. Eric Nakata, the truck’s chef and owner, dishes out Peruvian cuisine with a Japanese flare. According the Chef Nakata, the food is Peruvian while the spicing is Japanese (i.e. Kikkoman soy sauce). The name of the truck is a combination of its signature dish—lomo saltado, and the Japanese word for ‘thank you very much’—domo arigato.

What’s special about the Lomo Arigato truck is its “open kitchen.” While waiting for our food to be prepared, we were entertained by a pyrotechnic display.

Lomo Arigato’s menu is only three items long—lomo saltado, chaufa (Peruvian-style fried rice), and tallarin saltado (Peruvian-style spaghetti). Each dish was priced at $7.

The Astronomer and I went with Chef Nakata’s suggestion and ordered the signature lomo saltado, which was comprised of tri-tip steak, onions, tomatoes, cilantro, and french fries sauteed in red wine and soy sauce, and served over white rice. Aji sauce, also known on the truck as “the green sauce,” was served on the side.

The generously portioned lomo saltado was seasoned simply and well. The aji sauce stood out as the star of Lomo Arigato show. Its complex spiciness and addicting creaminess kicked all of the ingredients up several notches. Our only complaint with the lomo saltado was that the onions weren’t cooked well enough. A gentle caramelization would’ve made the entire dish a lot more appealing. Next time around, I’ll specifically request for the onions to be well done.

Follow Lomo Arigato on Twitter @lomoarigato.

POWER RANKINGS

India Jones Chow Truck > Dim Sum Truck > World Fare Bustaurant < Border Grill Truck > Cool Haus > Lomo Arigato > Don Chow > Kogi > Marked 5 > Dosa Truck > Phamish