May 2009

Auntie Em’s Red Velvet Cupcakes

Most of the shows on the Food Network are barely watchable, but I gotta say that Throwdown with Bobby Flay is damn fine television. Granted, I also think that The Hills is quality time spent in front of the telly, so do take what I write with a grain of pink salt from the copper mines of Montana.

During Episode 9 of Season 2, Flay challenged Terrie Wahl of Los Angeles’ Auntie Em’s Kitchen in a Cupcake Throwdown. He pitted his gingerbread cupcake with mango and vanilla buttercream frosting against her famous red velvet cupcakes with cream cheese frosting.

Prior to the Throwdown, viewers at home watched Wahl prepare her highly-acclaimed sweets from scratch. I was appalled and intrigued as I witnessed her glugging dangerously liberal amounts of vegetable oil and red food coloring into the batter and frosting each cupcake with an ice cream scoop’s worth. At the end of the episode, Flay claimed victory over Wahl, most likely because one of the two judges was rival Candace Nelson of Sprinkles Cupcakes fame.

I finally tasted Auntie Em’s red velvet cupcake when my friend Carissa brought one into the office to share. Visually, it was a stunner. The cake was blindingly red—far and away the deepest-hued red velvet I’d ever encountered. The frosting was piled an inch high and dotted with cute red sprinkles.

Taste-wise, I was impressed with the cake’s moistness (vegetable oil sure does the trick nicely!) and the frosting’s sweet tang and smooth texture. There was a time in my cupcake eating career when red velvets made me swoon, but these days I find them simply too sweet. Plus, food coloring in large quantities is a definite deal-breaker. However, as far as classic red velvets go, Auntie Em’s creation is solid.

“So to all you cooks out there, keep doing what you do. But ask yourself this, are you ready for a Throwdown?” Ha!

POWER RANKINGS

Sprinkles Cupcakes > Dots Cupcakes > Vanilla Bake Shop > Crumbs Bake Shop > Auntie Em’s Kitchen > Yummy Cupcakes > Violet’s Cakes.

Auntie Em’s Kitchen
4616 Eagle Rock Boulevard
Los Angeles, CA 90041
Phone: 323-255-0800

May 2009

STK – Los Angeles (West Hollywood)

STK is SXY. Really SXY. It’s the kind of place where scenesters get papped on their way into the restaurant, wheel and deal while they dine, and then leave in vehicles with tinted windows. The Astronomer and I rarely frequent establishments that are plastered on the gossipy pages of Us Weekly (my favorite tabloid), but when a special invitation is extended, we’ll gladly accept. Let it be known that we are PR-friendly whores.

Our invites to a private blogger dinner came courtesy of Abby of Pleasure Palate on behalf of the One Group. Even though my college economics professors emphasized on more than one occasion that there’s “no such thing as a free lunch,” they never did mention anything about dinner.

The Los Angeles blogging community showed up in full force for the STK event—let it be known that we are all PR-friendly whores. [For a full list of attendees, see below.]

When The Astronomer and I arrived on the scene, we thanked Abby for the generous invite and then joined the crowd of cocktail sipping bloggers mingling at the bar. We were pleased as pie to see some familiar faces in the crowd, including Tony C. and Wandering Chopsticks.

Created by mixologist Pablo Moix, the cocktails at STK are innovative, moreish, and most importantly, stiff as heck. I started the evening off with an Uva Caipirinha (left) with Leblon cachaca, red grapes, lime, and clover honey. The Astronomer sipped an ultra-manly Green Intensity (center) with Aviation gin, lime juice, Serrano chili slices, and basil leaves. Both were potent and tasty.

From the bar area, we made our way into the main dining room. As soon as our lovely waitress Bambi introduced herself and described the night’s offerings, we were presented with STK’s signature bread served in cast iron skillets (left). My first mound of bread was cold, so it was left untouched on my plate. The second hunk was much warmer and tasted even better dipped in the ground chives and olive oil sauce served alongside.

The first appetizer of the evening was a special off-the-menu creation by Executive Chef Todd Mark Miller. It consisted of tomatoes prepared four-ways (right)—dried, marinated, tartare, and plain. Inspired by the BLT sandwich, the plate was also strewn with bacon bits, avocado, basil, and radishes.

The appetizer was presented with a cocktail pairing, La Cienega (top, right), which consisted of Corzo silver, lime juice, cucumber slices, and mint leaves.

The most enjoyable (and memorable) courses of the evening were the ones that arrived early on, before I got smashed. Clockwise from top left: roasted beets (coriander, micro mint, yogurt, curry), tuna tartare (citrus yogurt, jalapeno, orange and plantain chips), arugula salad with apples, and jumbo lump crab salad (green melon, avocado, mache greens and kaffir lime). Everyone at our tabled adored the crab salad. I had seconds of the sweet golden beets.

The cold appetizers were followed up by some really amazing sliders. These Lil’ Big Macs (pardon the silly name) were comprised of tender patties of Japanese wagyu topped with special sauce, oozy cheese, and a slice of tomato, all on a toasted and buttered black sesame seed bun. This was hands down the best item I ate all evening.

And this is where the evening starts getting loud, blurry, and ridiculously fun. Some time after I polished off my Lil’ Big Mac, I started feeling the libations and as a result, forgot how to properly taste food. The evening’s cocktail pairings, which included a Capsicum Mojito (left – Bacardi, lime juice, mint leaves, bell pepper rings), a Great Gatsby (center – Hennessy, Cointreau, lemon juice, orange juice), and an STK’s Delicious (right – Patron XO, raspberries, mint leaves, lime juice), arrived at the table at a faster clip than I could down ’em.

I’d forgotten how much fun binge drinking could be—Thanks for reminding me, Pablo!

Next, we were served something called Cowboy Steak—dry-aged bone-in rib-eye (left)—and wet-aged filet with foie gras butter (right, top). The duo of steaks were served with a selection of sauces, including creamy horseradish, herb Bearnaise, red wine sauce, blue butter, STK, lemon mustard, bold STK, and toasted peppercorn.

As if that weren’t more than enough goodness, we also received platters of organic roasted chicken with turmeric, baby carrots, and chives (left) and red snapper with ponzu and shitake brown butter (right).

To accompany the heaps of meat, we were served sweet corn pudding (left, top), macaroni and cheese (left, bottom), asparagus (center), and Parmesan truffle fries (right).

The final bite of the evening was a hazelnut Pop Tart served with hazelnut ice cream. At nearly midnight, The Astronomer and I stumbled out of STK buzzed and happy.

A special thanks to Abby and the One Group for coordinating this delightful affair.

STK
755 N La Cienega Boulevard
West Hollywood, CA 90046
Phone: 310-659-3535

STK on Urbanspoon

STK in Los Angeles

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May 2009

The Foie Gras Wars – Mark Caro

About: Veteran Chicago Tribune entertainment reporter Caro expands on his front-page story about a 2005 flap over foie gras with a wide-ranging investigation into the ethical debate surrounding the human consumption of fattened duck liver. Drawing on conflicts in Chicago, Philadelphia and California over whether force-feeding birds should be legislated as torture or standard agricultural practice, Caro presents various positions from duck farmers, chefs and animal rights activists. His chatty arguments between industry players deliver without becoming unnecessarily complicated or resorting to the oversimplification of surveys and superficial media reports. Caro offers descriptions of a vegan activist headquarters, a video depicting a rat burrowing into an injured duck, and traditional farm operations in France. While he pursues his source’s agendas with due diligence, he appears reluctant to side completely with gourmands despite describing presumably happy ducks, mouthwatering foie gras meals and even eating a raw duck liver. While he tends to focus on the colorful, entertaining aspects of the food’s history and science, Caro’s selection of pointed quotes from duck liver lovers and foie gras foes presents an in-depth take on this ongoing food fight. From Publishers Weekly.

My Thoughts: I snatched up The Foie Gras Wars on the New Non-Fiction bookshelf at my local library. While it was the sensationalist title that initially caught my eye, Caro’s personable style of writing drew me in and kept me interested from start to finish. I appreciated how Caro’s background as an entertainment reporter distinguished his voice and style from the Michael Pollans and Marion Nestles of the food politics writing world.

As a semi-frequent fine diner and full-time news media hound, I’ve read bits and pieces here and there about the controversy over foie gras. I was well aware that the substance was banned for a period of time in Chicago and that Philadelphians were considering similar legislation, but I never understood the full picture until reading this book. I was really surprised to discover that it was Charlie Trotter who started this whole messy foie gras war. Not cool Chaz, not cool at all.

Some of the funniest parts of The Foie Gras Wars looked at the lengths Chicago chefs went to in order to serve the illegal substance. From giving it away gratis to establishing membership-only secret clubs, foie gras never really disapeared from the city’s fine dining scene. On the Philly front, cranky old Georges Perrier‘s (of Le Bec-Fin fame) tit for tat with the animal rights group Hugs for Puppies was a riot as well.

Aside from examining the politics and personalities behind the battle lines, Caro also paid a visit to a few of the U.S.’s major foie gras farms, including Hudson Valley Foie Gras and Sonoma Foie Gras, to witness gavage (force-feeding) firsthand. Although Caro doesn’t outwardly state whether or not he feels that foie gras production is cruel, from his tone and words, I gathered that he’s more for than against.

After reading Caro’s detailed accounts of gavage in both North America and in France, I remain comfortable consuming foie gras. However, I must admit that the images that surface from Googling ‘gavage, foie gras’ makes my stomach turn slightly.

Click below to watch Chef Dan Barber of Blue Hill and Blue Hill at Stone Barns discuss the potential for natural foie gras—it’s awesome. Thanks again, Vanessa!

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