Monthly Archive for April, 2008

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Bánh Hỏi Thịt Nướng

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Bánh hỏi are extremely thin rice noodles woven into intricate bundles or mats. The texture of fresh bánh hỏi is light and almost fluffy, while the taste is very similar to vermicelli rice noodles. “Same same, but different,” if you will (I’ve been waiting forever to use that phrase).

Bánh hỏi is often served layered on a plate and topped with scallion oil and a complementary meat dish. Thit heo quay (barbecued pork) and chao tom (shrimp paste wrapped around sugarcane) are two very popular accompaniments. The version above is topped with beautifully charred thit nuong (grilled pork) and cost 20,000 VND (187 Co Giang Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City).

Opera – Ho Chi Minh City

small pizza

April 5, 2008
Cuisine: Italian

Park Hyatt Saigon
2 Lam Son Square, District 1, HCMC

Website: www.saigon.park.hyatt.com
Phone: 84 8 824 1234

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White bread with creamy eggplant and olive oil (complimentary)

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Pescatorre Pizza ($10)

Since afternoon tea at the Park Hyatt ended up being underwhelming, The Astronomer and I headed to a nearby eatery we knew would hit the spot—Opera.

We ate here a few months back and had a fabulous experience, but regretted not sampling any of the innovative pizzas. On this visit, we ate only pizza to make up for lost time.

We were served a warm loaf of white bread with a creamy eggplant and olive oil dip to start. Toasty on the outside and springy on the inside, the bread here is seriously addictive, especially with the accompanying sauce.

The Pescatorre pie, which was prepared in the wood-fired oven, was generously topped with fresh scallops, octopus, shrimp, squid, mozzarella and a drizzling of olive oil. The tomatoes and herbs played second fiddle to the oozy cheese and fruits of the sea. The thick crust was nice and chewy around the edges, but soggy towards the center. To add a little oomph to the crust, I dipped it in the eggplant sauce.

Unlike in America, in Vietnam people rarely take leftovers to go due to the smaller portions. The Astronomer and I took home our very first doggie bag at Opera because the eight slices of pizza were too much for the both of us. The pizza tasted just as good, if not better, the next day after chilling overnight in the fridge. Some things are just universally delicious…

Afternoon Tea at the Park Hyatt Saigon

April 5, 2008
Cuisine: English, Vietnamese, Dessert

Park Hyatt Saigon
2 Lam Son Square, District 1, HCMC

Website: www.saigon.park.hyatt.com
Phone: 84 8 824 1234

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Lemongrass and Peppermint Tea

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Vietnamese Savories

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Classic Tea Sandwiches

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French Pastries

Afternoon tea has recently joined running, The Astronomer and the Travel and Living channel as one of my favorite pastimes. After a wonderful tea experience at the Caravelle Hotel when Lush was in town, I was extremely excited to tea once again.

The Park Hyatt’s afternoon tea ($8 per person) is held on the first floor of the hotel in the lobby lounge area. The space is dimly lit and richly decorated with dark wood and leather furniture. The overall vibe is classy, but perhaps a little too sophisticated and “old money” for my taste.

According to the lounge menu, afternoon tea consists of Vietnamese savories and French pastries. Although I prefer traditional offerings at tea time (i.e. little crust-less sandwiches), I arrived open-minded since this is the nicest hotel in town.

Our lemongrass and peppermint teas were presented in elaborately etched silver pots. My lemongrass tea tasted like a bowl of Tom Yum Goong soup, minus the spicy factor, while The Astronomer’s peppermint tea tasted like a candy cane, minus the high fructose corn syrup. The little shortbread cookie placed alongside our cups was buttery, crunchy and left us wanting a few more.

Our tea-time spread soon arrived on a wood-framed, three-tiered display rack. Is it just Saigon, or is afternoon tea always served on a multi-tiered display rack? Please explain.

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Feeling a bit uncreative, The Astronomer and I decided to start at the top and work our way down. The top tier consisted of Vietnamese savories, i.e. cha gio with nuoc mam and goi cuon with tuong. One of the cha gio was overcooked and bursting at the seams, while the other was in tip top shape. The Astronomer was quite the gentleman and offered me the pristine one, while he ate the ugly one. We both agreed that the cha gio was quite good, but it was strange just eating one. Cha gio are like Pringles, once you pop, you just can’t stop.

We were impressed that each of the tiny goi cuon contained two good-sized shrimps. Other than that notable aspect, they were fairly run of the mill.

The middle tier contained a selection of classic tea time sandwiches—ham, tomato and cheese, smoked salmon and cucumber, and egg salad. These weren’t advertised on the bill of fare and were a pleasant surprise. The sandwiches were fine, but unspectacular. Even the smoked salmon, my usual favorite, was a letdown.

The bottom dessert tier offered a mini lemon meringue tart, chocolate éclair, lemon and raspberry cake, chocolate financier cake and a vanilla napoleon. Our favorites were the lemon meringue tart and lemon and raspberry cake. The vanilla napoleon was so rich and buttery that I found it sadly inedible.

If you’re in Saigon and want to experience afternoon tea in a hoity-toity space with so-so selections, the Park Hyatt lounge is the place to be. If you’re in Saigon and want to play pretend British, go to the Caravelle.

Readers' Poll I

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This Readers’ Poll was inspired by a thoughtful post by Andrea Nguyen of Viet World Kitchen.

Phở Chay Như – Ho Chi Minh City

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April 4, 2008
Cuisine: Vietnamese, Vegetarian

54 Truong Quyen Street
District 3, Ho Chi Minh City

Phone: 8242816
Website: none

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Pho Chay (15,000 VND)

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Com Tam Bi Cha Thit Nuong Chay (front – 20,000 VND)

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Com Tam Bi Cha Thit Nuong Chay (back)

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Bi Cuon Chay (3,000 VND per roll)

If you’ve ever thought to yourself:

“Man, I love com tam bi cha thit nuong, but I feel so guilt-ridden eating three types of pork in one sitting. I sure wish there was a vegetarian version…”

Head to Phở Chay Như immediately.

gas•tron•o•my reader Michael recommended this eatery to me months ago and I finally got around to trying it recently. Thanks, Mike!

The Astronomer and I started with the restaurant’s signature dish, pho chay (vegetarian pho). Up until this point, we’ve been quite disappointed with the vegetarian interpretations of our favorite broth and noodle dishes because they’re usually a little watery and worlds away from the real deal.

What sets the pho chay here apart from other versions is its spot-on broth. The essence of star anise and charred onions thoroughly permeates the soup, bringing about a very accurate and familiar pho flavor.

Although we came for the pho, we left enamored by the com tam bi cha thit nuong. All I can say is, I can’t believe it’s not butter!

Every element of this dish looked so real, crazy real. Taste-wise, the saucy slab of barbecued pork was the least believable. However, the bi, cha, and nuoc mam could have fooled me.

Lastly, we each had one bi cuon, which are spring rolls made with bi. Another excellent use of mock meat. Bravo.

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