Category Archive for ‘Small Plates’ at gas•tron•o•my

Archive for the 'Small Plates' Category

Sampling Saigon’s Snack Shacks

Published

on October 15, 2007

in Restaurant Review, Saigon, Small Plates and Vietnamese

. 9 Comments

The Saigon Times newspaper is giving me the opportunity to write for their Leisure section and I’ve decided that snack shacks are a worthy first topic. I am trying to find a tone different from my gas•tron•o•my voice, but am having some difficulty. Here’s my first shot at newspaper glory…

A cross between street food and sit-down eateries, snack shacks serve up light fare perfect for a small bite when the mood hits. Extremely popular among the local teen set, these restaurants appeal to families and couples as well.

Similar to the western “small plates” experience, diners can mix and match sweet and savory dishes to create a one-of-a-kind meal.

Menus vary from shack to shack, but mainstays include sticky rice, spring rolls, fresh salads, and Vietnamese desserts. These establishments offer enough variety to suit even the pickiest of eaters.

Prices range from 3,000-8,000 VND per dish, so don’t hesitate to order precariously and try something new because your wallet will not suffer.

Here is a quick run through of snack shack must-tries:

Ha Cao

A close relative of Chinese dim sum and Vietnamese banh bot lot, these gelatinous dumplings are filled with minced pork and topped with fresh basil and a soy-based sauce. The meat filling is nothing special and tends to be skimpy, but the dumpling’s texture is appealingly chewy.

Bot Chien

The literal translation of this dish is “fried dough,” but it resembles more of an omelet than a doughnut. Little bits of dough are fried to a crisp and eggs and scallions are added over them. The “omelet” is served beautifully golden and garnished with pickled carrots and radishes and a side of soy dipping sauce. The crunchy edges are a highlight.

Bo Bia

While goi cuon is the most well-known Vietnamese spring roll, bo bia deserves some of the spotlight. These delicate rolls wrapped in rice paper contain sweet Chinese sausage, dried shrimps, lettuce, eggs, and a sautéed jicama and carrot slaw. Dipped in a bit of hoisin sauce, the roll’s sweet and salty double punch is sure to move your taste buds.

Ca Vien Chien

Think of these as fish meatballs. Generally served with hoisin sauce on the side, ca vien chien is best shared with friends because the flavor can veer toward monotonous.

Che

The majority of the offerings at snack shacks fall under this category. A somewhat cloyingly sweet dessert, che usually contains beans (black, red, and mung), coconut milk, tapioca, plenty of sugar and shaved ice. Westerners unaccustomed to bean-based sweets may shun the fibrous texture of che, but it’s definitely worth sampling at least once. The best way to experience che is with a tall cup of che tap cam, which means “a little bit of everything.” A local favorite is che xung xa hot lua, containing coconut milk, mung beans, and pink water chestnuts.

Goi Du Du Bo

This shredded green papaya salad topped with basil, beef jerky, peanuts, and a light dressing puts Caesar salad to shame. The jerky is unexpectedly sweet and flavorful, while the papaya is fresh and light. Take into account that portions on this dish run small when ordering.

Xoi Man

It’s hard to find a bad plate of xoi man— sticky rice topped with various meats (cha lua, cha bong, and pate), fried shallots, soy sauce, pickled vegetables, and an oil and scallion mixture. This simple dish never fails to satisfy.

–

In a town chock-full of food available at all hours of the day, it is not difficult to locate some grub when the munchies hit. The next time you’re hungry and hours away from mealtime, check out these snack shacks to suit your craving, whether it be sweet or savory:

Che My
Nguyen Thai Hoc Street
District 1, Ho Chi Minh City

Bo Bia
2B Su Thien Chieu Street
District 3, Ho Chi Minh City

Che Ky Dong
153/7 Ky Dong Street
District 3, Ho Chi Minh City

Che 278
278 Khanh Hoi Street
District 4, Ho Chi Minh City

Audrey Claire

Published

Gastronomer

on June 1, 2007

in New American, Philadelphia, Restaurant Review and Small Plates

. 2 Comments

May 25, 2007
Cuisine: American (New), Tapas

276 S 20th Street, Philadelphia 19103
Between Rittenhouse Square & Spruce Street

Phone: 215-731-1222
Website: http://www.audreyclaire.com

–

Course I: Spicy Hummus, House Cured Salmon and Mesclun with Herb Vinaigrette Flatbread ($9.50)

Course II: Buffalo Mozzarella, Plum Tomatoes, and Israeli Basil Flatbread ($9)

Course III: Grilled Octopus with Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Lemon and Fresh Herbs Over Greens ($8)

Course IV: Grilled Shrimp with Saffron Rice, Spring Peas, Chorizo and Paprika Vinaigrette ($11)

Course V: Spiced Lamb Meatball with Chickpea-Carrot Salad ($10)

Course VI: Sauteed Softshell Crabs with Black Bean and Roasted Corn Salsa ($23)

–

After four years of arduous seminars, tough problem sets, and way too much stress, the madness that is Swarthmore College finally ended for The Astronomer late last week. To properly commemorate this red letter day, champagne, good food, and great friends were in order. The Astronomer and I, along with his BFF Matt and teammate Connor, headed over to Audrey Claire for a celebratory feast with a bottle of bubbly in hand (and a lot of beers too).

Due to the extensive wait for a table outside, we opted to sit indoors. Luckily our group was large enough to merit our own table rather than a communal one because I hate hearing other diners’ conversations, which is oftentimes unavoidable in this compact space.

I always have a blast eating at Audrey Claire because the menu encourages mixing and matching flavors and sharing food family-style. My dining partners were refreshingly open-minded eaters so it was a breeze choosing which dishes to order.

We started off with two of Audrey Claire’s signature flatbreads. The spicy hummus with house cured salmon did not disappoint. I’ve tried this dish once prior and it was just as good as I remembered. Truly a perfect summertime delight. The Buffalo mozzarella, plum tomatoes, and Israeli basil flatbread was excellent as well, but perhaps too closely resembled a pizza. High quality ingredients and simple flavors are what makes these flatbreads sensational.

The Astronomer insisted that we order the grilled octopus because he is mildly obsessed with the tentacled creature. When the dish arrived, we were all let down by the ratio of octopus to greens; from the menu’s description we thought the octopus would be the star. Expectations aside, the dish was pleasantly light and the octopus was decent in spite of being chopped up into bits.

Our fourth course was chosen by Matt—Grilled Shrimp with Saffron Rice, Spring Peas, Chorizo and Paprika Vinaigrette. The one shrimp I had was suitable, but not as jumbo or juicy as I would have liked. The vinaigrette added a lovely tang to the shrimp. We all agreed that the saffron rice was more or less blah. I’m always surprised by how mild saffron tastes because its dying properties are indeed phenomenal.

Our fifth course—Spiced Lamb Meatball with Chickpea-Carrot Salad—was the highlight of the evening and perhaps the best dish I’ve ever eaten at Audrey Claire. The meatballs were intensely savory and impressively retained a deep lamb flavor. The chickpea-carrot salad was sweet, cinnamon-y, and amazingly delicious. The Astronomer usually shuns chickpeas, but loved the salad a great deal. A subtle mint sauce brought the dish to a whole new level.

Our final course was one of the evening’s specials—softshell crabs. Two good-sized crabs were fried up nicely, drizzled with spicy mayonnaise, and paired with a black bean and roasted corn salsa. The individual elements of the dish were tasty, but the entree overall lacked a certain something to tie it all together. I’m always a sucker for ordering specials and unfortunately they always seem to be a let down; I need to stick to the tried and true menu items.

FYI: this post marks the 100th restaurant review on gas•tron•o•my!

Snackbar

Published

Gastronomer

on May 30, 2007

in Philadelphia, Restaurant Review and Small Plates

. 5 Comments

May 21, 2007
Cuisine: American (New), Eclectic & International, Tapas

253 S 20th St, Philadelphia 19103
At Rittenhouse Square

Phone: 215-545-5655
Website: http://www.phillysnackbar.com/

–

BBQ Dusted Popcorn (complimentary)

Smaller Plate I: Caramel Apples with Miso and Wasabi Peas ($6)

Smaller Plate II: Octopus, Grilled, with Paprika and Lemon ($12)

Larger Plate I: Pork Belly with Pickled Melon, Rhubarb, and Kumquat ($18)

Larger Plate II: Salmon, Poached, with Fennel Strawberry Salad and Basil Tea ($24)

–

South 20th Street is becoming quite a dining destination these days, which bodes extremely well for yours truly because I live and work mere minutes away from some of the city’s best eats. Mama’s Vegetarian, Capogiro, and Audrey Claire are a few of my favorites on the block.

Snackbar opened its doors for business late last year and has received plenty of positive press for Chef Jonathan McDonald’s eccentric flavor combinations, like curry and bananas, and captivatingly minimalist menu.

When I dined at Snackbar last week, I was disappointed to find that the menu contained complete sentences rather than a playful jumble of words and some of the more adventurous items on the original menu were no longer offered such as the “Pork (Beer) Belly. Slow Egg. Dashi,” “Foie Gras. Quince. Buckwheat Bun,” and “Banana. Curry. Salt Caramel.” Luckily, the “Apples. Miso Caramel. Wasabi Peas” were still available.

James and I enjoyed the pleasant weather and some BBQ dusted popcorn while we waited for our food to arrive. The popcorn tasted better than regular old BBQ chips because popcorn is much mellower than potatoes and thus the mesquite flavor takes front and center. It was so addictive and I had to ask for seconds.

We started off with two “smaller plates”—apples and octopus. The Caramel Apples with Miso and Wasabi Peas were unfortunately mealy. I was informed by our waiter that Red Delicious apples were employed for this dish, which wholly explains the unpleasant texture. I think using Granny Smith apples would vastly improve upon the dish’s consistency and add an interesting sour element. On a positive note, the apples’ outer coating of Miso caramel and Wasabi peas was really fantastic. Sweet and spicy go together almost as well as sweet and salty.

The octopus was fairly good, but not nearly as adventurous in terms of flavor combinations as the apples. Encrusted with paprika, the octopus was lightly grilled and thus retained its signature chewiness nicely. The plate on which the octopus sat was brushed ever so lightly with a lemony sauce that paired well with the meat, but was too scant to enjoy with the entire dish.

To round out our meal, we ordered two “larger dishes.” I chose the pork belly, while James went for the salmon. The pork belly’s ratio of meat to fat was perfect, but didn’t melt in my mouth as I had hoped because it was seared to a firm crisp. The pork’s accompaniments, pickled melon, rhubarb, and kumquat were visually interesting, but didn’t enhance the pork belly’s flavor at all.

The salmon was delicately poached and very pleasant with the fennel strawberry salad. The basil tea foam was mild and fit in well with dish’s light and summery flavors. My favorite part was the salmon’s deliciously raw interior. James and I both loved the crispy salmon skin.

Tria

Published

Gastronomer

on April 29, 2007

in Philadelphia, Restaurant Review and Small Plates

. 1 Comment

April 24, 2007
Cuisine: Tapas, Eclectic & International

123 S 18th St, Philadelphia 19103
Btwn Stock Exchange Pl & Sansom St

Phone: 215-972-8742
Website: www.triacafe.com

–

Bruschetta: Brie with Balsamic-Blackberries and Tarragon ($4)

“Snack” I: Warm Poached Black Mission Figs with Gorgonzola and Prosciutto di Parma ($5 ½)

“Snack” II: Roasted Beets with Bulgarian Feta Cheese ($3 ½)

Dessert: Warm Blackberry and White Chocolate Bread Pudding with Citrus-Caramel and Blackberry Sauces ($6 ½)

–

In the mood for a light and interesting dinner after boozing at Rum Bar, my friend Anna and I headed over to Tria. I’ve walked by this eatery on several occasions and thought their menu looked enticing and especially liked how fractions are are used in place of decimals for prices. I appreciate the little things.

The menu at Tria features “snacks,” bruschetta, sandwiches, and salads. All food is priced under $10. I love small plate establishments because I’m able to pick and choose distinct flavor combinations that pique my interest, rather than committing to an entire entree where I may be indifferent to some components. I’ve been known to recreate this small plate freedom at regular restaurants by ordering two appetizers or several sides for my meal.

On this evening, all of our dishes were brought out at once (I think I’ll ask for a staggered delivery next time). We started with the Brie with Balsamic-Blackberries and Tarragon. The berries were wonderfully tart and the Brie was smooth and mild. Although I have had grapes and apples paired with cheese on many occasions, I have never had berries. The simplicity of each flavor came together nicely on the toasted baguette round.

My favorite plate of the evening was the Warm Poached Black Mission Figs with Gorgonzola and Prosciutto di Parma. The figs were tepid and oh so sweet; I love the texture of the fruit’s tiny seeds against my teeth. The salty Prosciutto and melted Gorgonzola paired well with the figs; each bite was intensely flavorful. Anna, who is not a fan of Gorgonzola, found the flavors too overwhelming.

The Roasted Beets with Bulgarian Feta Cheese was another simple, but winning dish. Anna and I found Bulgarian feta milder and less salty than its Greek counterpart. The beets were refreshing and calmed the cheese’s bite.

We finished off with Tria’s most popular dessert: a Warm Blackberry and White Chocolate Bread Pudding with Citrus-Caramel and Blackberry Sauces. The bread pudding was more cake-like than bread puddings I’ve had in the past and overall very tart, especially with the citrus and berry sauces. When it comes to desserts, my palette leans toward sickeningly sweet, so I was not blown away by this creation. I think the Banana, Caramel and Mascarpone Panino ($6) will be a good choice on my next visit.

Audrey Claire

Published

Gastronomer

on November 26, 2006

in New American, Philadelphia, Restaurant Review and Small Plates

. 0 Comments

November 25, 2006
Cuisine: American (New), Tapas

276 S 20th Street, Philadelphia 19103
Between Rittenhouse Square & Spruce Street

Phone: 215-731-1222
Website: http://www.audreyclaire.com

–

Course I: Grilled flatbread - Short ribs, Fontina cheese, chives

Course II: Crabcake atop a slice of cornbread, mesclun mix, garlic aioli

Course III: Grilled ostrich strip with hericot verts, roasted potatoes, and red wine reduction

–

After a disastrous Thanksgiving holiday, I had a relaxing dinner with James Golden (who from here on out will be referred to as “the Marathoner”) at Audrey Claire. Although the Marathoner grew up in the ‘burbs of Philly, he has yet to take full advantage of the city’s tasty offerings. Audrey Claire was a great start…

Since I had been to Audrey Claire once before with the Astronomer, I knew we had to start our meal with a flat bread course. The Marathoner initially leaned toward the hummus, mesclun, and smoked salmon combination, but chose the short ribs because I had already had the hummus combo during my last visit. The short rib flatbread was phenomenal. The meat was crisp, yet moist and was shredded atop the flat bread. The meat was deliciously smokey and fatty in flavor. The cheese was mild and foiled the meat nicely. The crust was soft and quite pita-like. Needless to say, we loved it.

Our next course was a crabcake/cornbread dish. The Marathoner loves crab and the Gastronomer loves cornbread, so this was definitely up our alley. Mmm. The crabcake was seasoned in a fashion so that the crab’s natural flavors took center stage. The cornbread’s light flavor complemented the crab beautifully in taste and texture. The aioli and greens provided a tartness that contrasted the crab and cornbread very well.

Our last course was one of the evening’s specials. Neither the Marathoner nor I had ever tasted ostrich so we couldn’t pass up the opportunity to try. Although we predicted that the meat would be bird-like (i.e. chicken), ostrich meat ended up surprisingly similar to beef. One difference being ostrich is much leaner than beef. The red wine reduction was a perfect accompaniment to the naturally flavorful meat — like A1, but way better. The hericot verts and potatoes were lovely sides, but not spectacular.

The dessert offerings didn’t pique our interests so we went elsewhere for treats. I enjoyed my second visit to Audrey Claire even more than my first. Well done, Professor Caskey, well done…