I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: the dining scene in Old Pasadena just keeps getting better and better. With the likes of Bone Kettle, Fishwives, Lost at Sea, and Maestro lining the streets in and around Colorado, we’re on the cusp of being spoiled over here. All that’s missing is a solid Vietnamese joint (wink, wink).

Opened at the start of 2017, Maestro is Chef Danny Godinez’s first restaurant in L.A. He has three Mexican restaurants in Orange County.

My friend Miguel, a Mexican food snob to rival Bill Esparza, previously dined here and had a terrific time. He was eager to return with Juliam and me in tow to share his favorite dishes and to try new ones together.

To drink, a mighty strong “Agave Old Fashion” ($14) made with tequila, mezcal, spicy agave, and bitters.

Between the three of us, we shared three appetizers and three mains. We all but waddled out of the restaurant at the end of the evening.

The first dish to land on the table was the ceviche ($14) with shrimp, octopus, chile manzano, jalapeno, and heirloom tomatoes. Though fresh and well-balanced, the dish was fairly unremarkable.

The strongest appetizer was the Tacos Ahogados ($12), delightful taquitos stuffed with shredded chicken and served in a slurp-able broth with a spicy slaw, crema, and queso fresco.

The Esquite ($11) was comprised of two elements: baby corn spears dusted in cojita cheese and chapulines (grasshoppers) served alongside a soupy bowl full of corn kernels in a tangy, creamy liquid. While we weren’t sure how to approach it, the dish’s flavors were tastily on-point.

Moving on to mains, we shared the braised lamb shank ($31) served with thick, house-made tortillas and Mexican rice. We made satisfying little tacos using the fork-tender flesh, roasted chili sauce, and pickled cabbage.

 

My favorite dish of the evening was the seared scallops ($29) served on a bed of huitlacoche (corn smut) rice and epazote foam. The risotto-like rice had an irresistibly rich and earthy way about it.

And finally, we shared the chicken mole ($18)—plated in the shape of Mexico—with avocado puree, queso fresco, and jocoque cheese. It was easily the clunkiest dish we sampled with its dry chicken, forgettable sauces, and abstract plating.

For dessert we shared the jericalla, a cross between creme brulee and flan. The flavor was more egg-forward than anticipated, but appealing nevertheless.

While there were hits and misses this evening, overall, we quite enjoyed our feast of modern Mexican fare. The most memorable dishes, namely the tacos ahogados and the seared scallops, will definitely have me coming back for more. Old Pasadena just keeps getting better and better.

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Maestro
110 Union Street
Pasadena, CA 91103
Phone: 626-787-1512

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Three years ago: {swoon} Blueberry Doughnut at M&M Donuts
Four year ago: Glazed and Infused Doughnuts – Chicago
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