Every afternoon between the hours of three and seven o’clock, the residents of Madrid take a break from the grind, descend upon cafes and pastry shops, and indulge in a sweet, midday pick-me-up. Of all the fabulous Spanish customs that The Astronomer and I adopted during our stay (e.g. midnight dinners, wine-filled meals, and post-lunch naps), the merienda is the one I miss the most.
On our first afternoon in the capital city, The Astronomer and I sought out hot chocolate and churros at Madrid’s most well-known chocolatería—San Ginés. Established in 1894, San Ginés is located in a small passageway, tucked away from the hustle and bustle of the Puerta del Sol. In spite of its less than prominent location, a mixed crowd of locals and tourists find their way here every hour of the day. In fact, the shop is open daily from 9 AM to 6 AM. I think it’s the intoxicating blend of hot oil, fried dough, and melted chocolate that lures everyone in.
The Astronomer and I each ordered a mug of the chocolaty stuff, along with a plate of churros to share. We grabbed a table outside and within fifteen minutes, our loot arrived. The bittersweet brew was just as I had hoped—dark, warm, thick, and dreamy to sip and dip.









