Jun 2010

Chocolatería San Ginés – Madrid

Chocolateria San Gines - Madrid

Every afternoon between the hours of three and seven o’clock, the residents of Madrid take a break from the grind, descend upon cafes and pastry shops, and indulge in a sweet, midday pick-me-up. Of all the fabulous Spanish customs that  The Astronomer and I adopted during our stay (e.g. midnight dinners, wine-filled meals, and post-lunch naps), the merienda is the one I miss the most.

Chocolateria San Gines - Madrid

On our first afternoon in the capital city, The Astronomer and I sought out hot chocolate and churros at Madrid’s most well-known chocolatería—San Ginés. Established in 1894, San Ginés is located in a small passageway, tucked away from the hustle and bustle of the Puerta del Sol. In spite of its less than prominent location, a mixed crowd of locals and tourists find their way here every hour of the day. In fact, the shop is open daily from 9 AM to 6 AM. I think it’s the intoxicating blend of hot oil, fried dough, and melted chocolate that lures everyone in.

Chocolateria San Gines - Madrid

The Astronomer and I each ordered a mug of the chocolaty stuff, along with  a plate of churros to share. We grabbed a table outside and within fifteen minutes, our loot arrived. The bittersweet brew was just as I had hoped—dark, warm, thick, and dreamy to sip and dip.

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Jun 2010

Ahn Joo – Los Angeles

Ahn Joo - Los Angeles

July 23, 2009—that’s the exact date when I fell in love with Korean rice cakes (duk). Since that deliciously chewy day at Cham Korean Bistro in Pasadena, I’ve eaten pounds upon pounds of the stuff and even successfully prepared an authentic version at home. Recently, an unofficial duk truck rolled into town. Chef Debbie Lee’s Ahn-Joo brings modern Korean pub grub to the streets of Los Angeles, including some bold renditions of my favorite rice cylinders.

The Astronomer and I chased down the truck yesterday afternoon at the CNN building on Sunset. Chef Lee was on the scene to greet us with a smile and to tell us more about why she decided to take her culinary act on the road.

Ahn Joo - Los Angeles

Following an appearance on season five of The Next Food Network Star, Chef Lee consulted at Culver City’s Gyenari and served “SeoulTown Tapas” at Breadbar. Although both engagements allowed her to introduce her unique style of fusion cooking to the public, the price point was ultimately too high to reach the masses. With Ahn Joo, Chef Lee hopes to spread her “Seoul-to-soul” dishes across the city and to provide an alternative to fast food.

Ahn Joo - Los Angeles

The menu is divided into four parts: Small Grub ($3), Medium Grub ($5),  Large Grub ($7), and Sweet Grub ($5). We began with an order of bacon-wrapped duk with jalapeño ponzu ($3). Bacon has a way of making just about everything better, and this was no exception. The smoky bacon and the citrus-laced ponzu provided the oomph that the simple rice cakes needed to shine.

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Jun 2010

Arzak – San Sebastian

Restaurante Arzak - San Sebastian

The Astronomer and I dined at Arzak on our final evening in San Sebastian. Of the trio of high end modern restaurants on our itinerary, I was anticipating this one the most.  Juan Mari Arzak, the restaurant’s chef and owner, is regarded as one of the great masters of New Basque cuisine. I’ve been gawking at photos of his food for years, so it was extremely exciting to finally step into his den and let the magic begin.

Restaurante Arzak - San Sebastian

The building where the restaurant is located has been in the Arzak family since it was built in 1897. Constructed by Juan Mari’s  grandparents, the space was initially used as a wine inn and tavern. Juan Mari’s parents eventually took it over and converted it into a restaurant specializing in celebratory banquets.

In 1966, after completing his education and a stint in the military, Juan Mari returned to the kitchen where he grew up and began developing his signature cuisine alongside his mother, whom he credits as “the one that revealed all the secrets of gastronomy.” Under Juan Mari’s watch, Arzak became the first Spanish restaurant to earn three Michelin stars in 1989. Today, kitchen duties are shared between Juan Mari and his daughter Elena, and all three Michelin stars remain intact.

Restaurante Arzak - San Sebastian

While the restaurant’s exterior is a bit dated, the interior is black, white, and modern all over. Each table was adorned simply with a single white iris.

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