Apr 2010

The Crumpet Shop – Seattle

THE CRUMPET SHOP

If there was one British practice that we should have retained before ousting them from our shores centuries ago, it surely is afternoon tea. I can’t think of a better way to spend the hazy hours between lunch and dinner than indulging in warm tea with clotted cream-slathered scones. As much as I adore the practice, I’ve only been to tea exactly two times in my life. On both occasions I was in a fancy hotel in Saigon [See: Caravelle and Park Hyatt] and on both occasions I missed out on crumpets. Sure, there were dainty finger sandwiches and adorable petit fours, but sadly, not a single crumpet graced my three-tiered towers.

THE CRUMPET SHOP

I finally had the pleasure of tasting a coveted crumpet while in Seattle. Opened in 1976 by Gary Lasater and Nancy McFaul, The Crumpet Shop has become a city institution. While crumpets aren’t traditionally eaten for breakfast, The Astronomer, Rosalind, and I thought they’d be perfectly pleasant in the morning. We snagged a table near the kitchen, granting us the opportunity to spy on the unknowing chap performing his crumpet making duties.

THE CRUMPET SHOP

Crumpets are the result of a simple yeast batter meeting a hot griddle and circular molds. The spilled-over batter is scraped off to create a neat disc. The surface is spongy and porous, which allows butter and jam to seep into every little hole. The texture is similar to an English muffin, but a bit doughier and more substantial.

On our first visit to The Crumpet Shop, we shared two crumpets with butter and fresh preserves ($1.95). Each one was toasted to order and buttered up nicely. The marmalade was full of zesty bits and bitter enough to remind us that we were eating a whole orange with a bit of sugar rather than the opposite.

THE CRUMPET SHOP

The gooseberry jam offered two firsts in one bite—my first crumpet and my first gooseberry! Taste-wise, the jam was better balanced than the marmalade.

THE CRUMPET SHOP

The Astronomer and I returned to The Crumpet Shop a few days later for an afternoon snack. This time around, we sampled a savory one. The warm crumpet came topped with a thick spread of ricotta cheese, house-made pesto, and shredded ham ($4). The highlight was the subtle and creamy ricotta. I don’t think I’ve ever been so taken by ricotta cheese.

I loved my crumpet experience so much that I purchased crumpet molds from Amazon as soon as I arrived home. I cannot wait to have afternoon tea in my apartment with fresh crumpets and jam served on the brand-new China from the wedding registry. Good times ahead.

The Crumpet Shop
1503 1st Avenue
Seattle, WA 98101
Phone: 206-682-1598

Apr 2010

Ludo Bites 4.0 at Gram & Papa’s – Los Angeles (Downtown)

LUDO BITES AT GRAM & PAPA'S

Chef Ludo Lefebvre is a rock star. For starters, he doesn’t play by the brick and mortar rules. He pops up whenever and wherever he pleases,  keeping diners firmly on their toes the entire time.  Furthermore, when the chef unveils his chosen venue and releases dates, every seat in the house sells out within hours. Reservation systems have been known to malfunction due to his popularity. Not to mention, the man has more groupies than David Bowie does. His most devoted fans drop in several times a month and are sure to have their menus autographed afterward.

LUDO BITES AT GRAM & PAPA'S

After bringing down the house at Royal/T last December and at BreadBar before that, Chef Ludo has set up shop at Downtown’s Gram & Papa’s. His two month engagement officially begins today and runs through May 28. Fortunately, I was one of a few lucky bloggers invited by Fooddigger to sit down for a sneak preview the evening before LudoBites 4.0‘s debut.

LUDO BITES AT GRAM & PAPA'S

The new space is incredibly intimate. Every seat in the house offers a perfect view of the open kitchen, redefining the boundaries between diners and chef.

LUDO BITES AT GRAM & PAPA'S

Our multi-course tasting began with individual-sized baguettes served with “Three Fat Textures.” While the clarified and brown butters were completely delicious, I found myself returning again and again to the bright white lavender-laced lard.

LUDO BITES AT GRAM & PAPA'S

Following the bread course was a gorgeous plate of Gastrovac‘d fruits and vegetables. The centerpiece was a carrot salad with saffron creme anglaise. Cooked slow and low, the carrots retained their characteristic snap and sweetness. Pickled pearl onions and a plethora of citrus fruits (Meyer lemon, blood orange, Navel orange) brought pleasantly tart accents to the plate.

LUDO BITES AT GRAM & PAPA'S

The dish that elicited the most ooh and ahhs was the “Egg, Potato Mousseline, Lobster, Borage Flower.” Hidden beneath the impossibly smooth layer of potato puree were hunks of butter poached lobster and a soft boiled egg. The intermingling of flavors between the lobster, potato, and silky yolk had us all swooning with delight.

LUDO BITES AT GRAM & PAPA'S

Making its second appearance on the LudoBites tour was the foie gras croque-monsieur. The sandwich initially debuted at the tail end of LudoBites 2.0 and was brought back by popular demand. While it doesn’t look like much on the outside, Chef Ludo’s croque is something kind of wonderful. Sandwiched between two slices of squid ink-dyed bread is a luscious lobe of foie gras, ham, and cheese. A chutney of lemon, turnip, and seaweed provided a bold punch to balance out the richness. Will Chi, one of Fooddigger’s founders, missed the sandwich so much that he proclaimed “welcome home” as he took a bite. Welcome home, indeed.

LUDO BITES AT GRAM & PAPA'S

Another terrific course was the Burgundy escargots with garlic flan and parsley jus. While I can’t say that this wildly different interpretation topped the classic Escargots de Bourgogne, I did appreciate how Chef Ludo turned the standard combination of ingredients completely on its head.

LUDO BITES AT GRAM & PAPA'S

The only dish that left me wanting was the Columbian River King salmon with spring cabbage and juniper berries. While the fish was superbly cooked, the accouterments mostly fell flat and didn’t enhance the dish overall.

LUDO BITES AT GRAM & PAPA'S

All thoughts of the lackluster salmon completely disappeared with the arrival of the peculiarly shaped Jidori chicken. The supple slab of poached white meat was topped with bits of fried skin and hazelnuts. The deconstructed chicken was impressively moist and crispy in all the right places. Pickled leeks with English peas, as well as a phenomenal bacon pudding, were on hand to mix and mingle. Having mastered the art of fried chicken, it seems that Chef Ludo is channeling his creativity toward rethinking roasted chicken.

LUDO BITES AT GRAM & PAPA'S

The cheese course was comprised of a brie chantilly napoleon with honeycomb, balsamic, and frisee. The rind-less brie was whipped for two hours by hand Kitchen Aid, creating a luxuriously creamy texture not unlike butter. I’ve always loved pairing honey with cheese and was pleased to have bits of honeycomb to swipe my napoleon in.

LUDO BITES AT GRAM & PAPA'S

The final course was a dark chocolate souffle with black pepper milk chocolate ice cream and chocolate cream. Served warm out of the oven, the souffle was light and ultra chocolaty. The black pepper milk chocolate ice cream, which was made with the most fragrant Indonesian black pepper, was surprisingly spicy and strangely addictive.

In a town where every other menu is crowded with sliders, bacon, and pork belly, Chef Ludo is seeking to do something different and memorable. Diners and critics may not always be thrilled with his jarring juxtapositions, but he’d rather be bold and fail, than predictable and popular. The beauty of LudoBites is the ever-evolving menu. Chef Ludo promises to introduce some really provocative dishes  just as soon as he’s comfortable in his new space. I can’t wait to see what he comes up with next!

Ludo Bites at Gram & Papa’s
227 East 9th Street
Los Angeles, CA 90015
Phone: 213-624-7272

Apr 2010

Sage Cafe – Seattle

SAGE CAFE SEATTLE

Although it might not be apparent from the decadent morsels posted on this blog, there’s a little voice inside my head that keeps my diet in check. Whenever I’ve  stuffed too many cupcakes or dumplings down my gullet, it pipes up to remind me that a little greenery wouldn’t hurt. The little voice is admittedly quieter while I’m on vacation, but it has its limits. After 36 hours of consuming little more than doughnuts, chowder, and ice cream, my body was hurting for some vegetables.

Fortunately, The Astronomer, Rosalind, and I were kickin’ it in Capitol Hill when the mood for roughage hit. The densely populated area is home to Seattle’s most happenin’ hipsters and virtuous vegetarians. A resident of the neighborhood, Rosalind led us to Sage Cafe (formerly Hillside Quickie’s Cafe), her favorite vegan sandwich shop in the city. With hearty nutrients in sight, the little voice cheered with glee.

SAGE CAFE SEATTLE

According to the company’s website, Sage Cafe is a twenty-year-old family business that started in the back of a mini-van. From its humble roots, the local chain has become the leading Northwest company in the vegan Slow Food movement.

SAGE CAFE SEATTLE

From the lengthy menu, I selected The Sweet Jamaican wrap ($11), which was comprised of jerk-spiced tofu in lavash bread with smoked yams, grilled sweet onions, tomatoes, coleslaw, lettuce, and vegan mayonnaise. The hefty package was neatly wrapped and bursting with freshness. The tastiest bites were the ones that paired the creamy yams with the spicy tofu. Let it be known that I am a meat eater with a soft spot for soy byproducts.

SAGE CAFE SEATTLE

The Astronomer’s  Thai Curried Gyro ($10) came with seitan, grilled onions, and heirloom tomatoes on Egyptian flat bread. The sandwich turned out to be a knife and fork affair since the oozy contents could not be contained. The wrap was pretty darn tasty with its curried innards, but sadly was a big ‘ol mess to behold and eat. Food should be a feast for the eyes and mouth.

SAGE CAFE SEATTLE

Rosalind’s El Besito Caliente burger ($11) was a tremendous mouthful of  grilled tofustrami (tofu with pastrami seasonings), avocado, cucumbers, caramelized red onions, and tomatoes. A vegan lime chipotle mayonnaise moistened the burger from top to bottom.  The “spicy little kiss” packed a lot of heat and was the most delightful veggie burger I’ve ever tasted.

Sage Cafe was just what my body craved on this sunny afternoon in Seattle.

Sage Cafe
324 15th Avenue East
Seattle, WA 98112
Phone: 206-325-6429

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