Gastronomy Blog by Cathy Chaplin

Restaurant Review

19 Oct 2009

Tony Luke’s – Philadelphia

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After living away from Philadelphia for two long years, pulling into Center City on board the Chinatown bus felt kind of magical. The weather was blustery and the skies were gray, but all that didn’t matter. I was in my old stomping grounds and it felt beyond good to be back. For our first dinner in the city, The Astronomer and I paid Tony Luke and his famous cheesesteaks a visit. The cab ride to this distant part of the city cost more than our meal, but there was no other place we’d have rather been.

Back when I lived in Philly, I conducted a few cheesesteak throwdowns between Pat’s King of Steaks and Geno’s Steaks. My brother and I pitted the two South Philly powerhouses against one another in 2004 with Pat claiming victory. The Astronomer and I conducted a rematch during the spring of 2007 with Geno coming out on top. In the years since I’ve moved away from Philly, I’ve come to realize that both Pat and Geno are famewhores. The good stuff is at Tony Luke’s.

The counter at Tony Luke’s is manned by a brusque but efficient woman. Even though she wasn’t particularly friendly to us, I’d take her any day over the intimidating and burly beasts working over at Pat’s and Geno’s. I ordered a cheesesteak with grilled onions and Cheez Whiz ($7.25), while the Astronomer went for another Philadelphia classic, a roast pork sandwich ($6.25).

The sandwiches arrived rolled and wrapped in butcher paper.

Both of my sandwich’s namesake components were totally right on. The steak, a pleasing cross between hacked bits and thin slices, was well seasoned and browned around the edges. The “cheese” didn’t possess the most appealing color, but it tasted fine enough and moistened the entire sandwich. What’s especially noteworthy about Tony Luke’s creation is the bread. Soft, yet sturdy, the hefty Italian roll held every ingredient in place and gelled seamlessly with the meat, onions, and Whiz. With the weather so cold and my stomach so empty, I scarfed down this sandwich much too quickly.

The Astronomer’s roast pork sandwich was served on the same Italian roll as my cheesesteak and filled with slices upon slices of moist and juicy pork. Unfortunately, The Astronomer passed on the Provolone and broccoli rabe this evening, which I think are absolutely essential. Roast pork sandwiches may not be as popular as cheesesteaks, but they’re seriously just as good. Tony Luke’s roast pork is even better than DiNic’s, which is located inside the Reading Terminal Market.

After filling our gullets with authentic regional cuisine, The Astronomer and I met up with our old XC teammates for drinks at The Bards. I still can’t believe the Irish Pub was enforcing a cover charge. As if!

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Tony Luke’s
39 East Oregon Avenue
Philadelphia, PA‎ 19148
Phone: 215-551-5725‎

Now Closed

16 Oct 2009

Rush Street – Los Angeles (Culver City)

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Brunch is a meal that I often claim to love, but when it comes to actually getting out to experience it, staying up late the night before and lazing the day away always seems to win out. Not to mention that the brunching options in my neighborhood are mediocre at best. Now, if I lived down the street from Ad Hoc or AMMO, that’d be a different story. An invitation to scope out the “Ultimate Hangover” brunch with brats, beers, and boisterous bloggers at Culver City’s Rush Street was just the incentive I needed to get me back to brunching. Oh, and promises of bottomless mimosas too!

Inspired by the famous Chicago strip, Rush Street combines California style with Midwestern sensibilities. The spacious restaurant boasts two floors, two bars, two patios, and one very inviting stripper pole. The vibe here is fun, unpretentious, and welcoming.

Rush Street is also the unofficial meet-up location for fans of Chicago’s professional and collegiate sports teams. On the Saturday morning that we visited, Northwestern alums dressed up in all sorts of purple regalia were cheering on their team in the second floor lounge. Seeing nerdy Northwestern kids getting hyped up about football kind of made me wish that Swarthmore hadn’t canceled it after my freshman year. Wah wah.

Every Saturday and Sunday Rush Street offers a crowd-pleasing brunch menu from 9 AM to 3 PM. Endless mimosas can be had for $20 ($7 for one), while bottomless build-your-own Bloody Marys go for $20 ($10 for one). The DIY Bloody Mary station included a selection of gourmet olives and pickled vegetables, ten kinds of hot sauces, three kinds of tomato juices, and traditional seasonings and garnishes. Both The Astronomer and I went with flutes of fizzy mimosa.

As we sipped our beverages on the front patio, we dug into some of the finest spuds in town—from left to right—sweet potato fries ($7), truffle asiago fries ($7), and barbecue dusted tater tots ($7). The truffle-infused shoestrings were moreish to the extreme.

For the next part of the Rush Street brunch experience, our group moved into the main dining room. The Astronomer and I teamed up with Anjali of Delicious Coma to share our entrees in order to experience as much of the menu as possible.

Anjali’s cinnamon pecan Belgian waffles ($12) arrived doused in maple syrup and whipped cream. By the time I got around to sampling it, the copious amounts of cream and syrup had taken their toll; the once crisped-edged and chewy waffle had transformed into a sponge. Syrup on the side, please.

The Astronomer’s caramelized onion, pancetta, fig, and goat cheese pizza ($12) sounded promising, but it ended up tasting too sweet. I loved the combination of flavors on the pie, but the ratios of each ingredient needed to be slightly tweaked with stronger savory notes.

Anjali and I agreed that the fried egg sandwich ($11) was the best item of the morning. Smothered between two slices of toasted Parmesan crusted sourdough, the fried eggs mingled harmoniously with three kinds of melted cheese, pancetta, and tomatoes. A simple dish done very well.

Psst! This post has a secret song.

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Rush Street
9546 Washington Boulevard
Culver City, CA 90232
Phone: 310-837-9546

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Now Closed

14 Oct 2009

Border Grill – Los Angeles (Santa Monica)

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In a city where food bloggers are spoiled with meals out on the town nearly every night of the week, it’s rare that I attend an event so seriously kick ass that I wake up the following day with a goofy grin permanently planted across my face. The morning after, or more accurately the afternoon after, attending last week’s margarita dinner at Border Grill in Santa Monica, I was smiling from ear to ear. I had so much fun.

Border Grill, chefs Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger‘s upscale, modern Mexican food restaurant, hosts margarita dinners several times a year. The event I attended was a four-course affair featuring five different margaritas made with Tequila Corralejo. The cost was $45 per person, or $38 for Border Grill Locals Club members. The Astronomer and I attended the dinner as guests of the restaurant. Lucky, lucky us.

The vibe at Border Grill is colorful in every sense of the word. Every inch of space from floor to ceiling is painted in vibrant and bold hues. As someone who lists “bright colors” as an interest on her Facebook profile, you bet your boots I was digging the “urban cantina” atmosphere.

The Astronomer and I were seated at a large communal table, one of five set up in the main dining room for the event. To my left were two fun kids on their seventh date, and to my right were a group of three Border Grill regulars, or rather Mary Sue and Susan regulars. They’ve been fans of the Two Hot Tamales since their City Cafe days. With tequila flowing freely, we were all BFFs by the end of the night.

First up in the drinks department was a classic margarita served in a salt-rimmed glass. The drink went down fast and smooth.

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