Gastronomy Blog by Cathy Chaplin

Now Closed

11 Nov 2015

Pondok Kaki Lima Indonesian Food Bazaar at the Duarte Inn – Los Angeles (Duarte)

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The parking lot of the Duarte Inn plays host to some of the best Indonesian cooking in Los Angeles every Saturday from 10 in the morning until to 2 in the afternoon. Pondok Kaki Lima, popularly described as an outdoor “food bazaar,” is composed of three different vendors hawking homey Indonesian fare.

The Astronomer and I first explored Pondok Kaki Lima while I was researching and writing the Food Lovers’ Guide to Los Angeles. Considering what a terrific time we had and how close Duarte is to home, it took us far too long to return. Better late than never, as always.

This time around, we came with our daughter June in tow. She was quite receptive to the spice and funk of Indonesian cooking, which pleased her (not smug) parents to no end. (more…)

Restaurant Review

30 Oct 2015

n/naka – Los Angeles

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I try not to throw around the word “perfect” too often, but there’s no way around it when it comes to Chef Niki Nakayama’s n/naka. From food to service and ambiance, this place is as perfect as they come. There, I said it.

Chef Niki serves a 13-course “Modern Kaiseki” nightly ($185). The menu changes with the seasons, and with the chef’s whims, while the flow of the meal adheres to Japanese traditions. The three hour experience is beautifully orchestrated and paced just so, leaving diners pampered, satisfied, and feeling thoroughly justified for indulging in something so extravagant.

Our meal began with Saki Zuke, “a pairing of something common and something unique,” grilled Japanese scallop with ikura (salmon eggs) and English pea soup. (more…)

Restaurant Review

15 Oct 2015

Dulan’s On Crenshaw – Los Angeles (Crenshaw)

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For a taste of southern home cooking in Los Angeles, look no further than Dulan’s on Crenshaw. Here at this brightly lit and simply appointed restaurant, owner Greg Dulan follows his father Adolf “King of Soul Food” Dulan’s footsteps, delivering delightful down-home fare that hits the spot like nothing else can. Adolf, by the way, owns the equally excellent Dulan’s Soul Food Kitchen in Inglewood.

Dulans On Crenshaw - Crenshaw - Los Angeles

Dulan’s is laid out a bit like a cafeteria, with Styrofoam trays and steam tables at the front. While all menu items are available a la carte, most diners choose a “meat and two” combination that comes with two sides and two cornbread muffins.

The roster of proteins includes fried, baked, and smothered chicken, fried and baked fish, oxtails, short ribs, smothered pork chops, and meatloaf. The selection of sides includes macaroni and cheese, two types of greens (collard and cabbage), candied yams, cornbread dressing, red beans, rice, mashed potatoes, corn and okra, black-eyed peas, and potato salad.

While my lunchtime companions couldn’t resist the fried chicken, the meatloaf ($10.95) was calling my name. Served smothered with softened onions and a ketchup-spiked gravy, the meatloaf had a homey and hearty way about it. I was pleased with my selection. (more…)