8 a.m. Under normal circumstances, following an evening of indulgences, I seek a simple breakfast of fibrous cereal and fresh fruit. For me, balance is key to resting my taste buds and maximizing the enjoyment of meals taken outside the home.
It was clear from the get-go that the circumstances surrounding the Baja culinary blitz were anything but normal. The morning after stuffing our faces for twelve hours straight, we dug into a meaty heap of lamb and Mexican-style Haggis. It seems that my dear friend Balance was left at the border and would not be retrieved until I returned to American soil. I didn’t miss her one bit!
Victor Emanuel Torres (pictured above) is the proud owner of Barbacoa “Ermita,” the site of our first meal on day two of the Baja culinary blitz. A native of Hidalgo, Torres specializes in barbecue from his home state.
We arrived just in time to see Torres removing the copious layers of masa to reveal mounds of freshly cooked lamb. The meat, which was steamed overnight in an above-ground pit constructed by Torres, smelled overwhelmingly good and whetted our jaded palates nicely.
As we settled into our seats, Torres’ son brought over corn tortillas that he had just heated on the griddle. Serving us in a room adjacent to their home, the father and son duo treated our group of camera-wielding, question-asking Americans just like family.
Freshly prepared salsas awaited us at the table. The selection included a pasilla chile salsa with pulque, a red salsa of beer and chiles de arbol, habanero salsa, and a green salsa of tomatillos. There were also bowls of chopped cilantro and onions, as well as lime wedges to further adorn our lamb tacos. It was way too early in the morning for salsa experimentation, so I mainly stuck with the cilantro, onions, and limes.
Steaming in a pit for 10+ hours will result in some awesomely tender and flavorful meat. So tender, in fact, that the lamb refused to adhere to the bone.
A lamb taco with cilantro, onions, and a squirt of lime. The warm and rustic tortilla was heartier than most and tied the pacakge together well. The tacos were somewhat dry, especially considering the tortilla’s thickness, so we sipped and dipped hot consomme on the side. The rich but mildly flavored broth contained lamb juices and garbanzo beans.
We washed everything down with cool glasses of homemade jamaica, an agua fresca made of hibiscus.
The finale was a pancita rellena—barbecued lamb stomach stuffed with offal and red chili. If it weren’t for the dominating metallic taste of liver, I would’ve been all over this south of the border Haggis.
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Barbacoa Ermita
Ermita No. 807
La Mesa, Tijuana
Phone: 664-622-1969
When I was a Philadelphia resident, my daily routines had me constantly interacting with the city and its inhabitants. I walked to and from work, ate lunch in the park, raced along the Schuylkill River, and did all of my shopping at the Reading Terminal Market. Dwelling in a walkable, centralized city fostered a sense of belonging and identity that I’ve yet to experience in my little corner of Los Angeles.
Located east of Hollywood, the community of Silver Lake captures the tight-knit neighborhood feel that I’ve grown to miss. I was already toying with the idea of relocating here after exploring Silver Lake Boulevard’s unique boutiques and seeing the hoard of runners lapping the reservoir, but it was a dinner at Gloria Felix’s Reservoir that had me convinced that a move might be in order.
Reservoir reminds me of a neighborhood gem I used to frequent in Philadelphia called Audrey Claire. The space is small and comfortable, the menu is familiar and reasonably priced, and the crowd is mostly local. Chef Felix, who has worked under some of the city’s finest culinary minds including Suzanne Goin, Neal Fraser, and Suzanne Tracht, focuses on “seasonal rustic” cuisine. The food here is new American in spirit and constantly inspired by what’s available at the farmer’s market, which Chef Felix frequents on a regular basis.
It it weren’t for an invite from my friend H.C. to attend a media dinner, I probably never would have found my way to Reservoir. We arrived a bit early for the event and had the opportunity to chat with owner and manager Darren Roberts and to Chef Felix. The chef looked eerily familiar, but I couldn’t pinpoint where I’d met her previously. I later found out that she served as Gordon Ramsay’s on camera sous-chef for two seasons of Hell’s Kitchen. No wonder I recognized her face!
Dinner began with one of Reservoir’s specialties—shrimp tacos ($14). The panko-crusted fried shrimp was crunchy on the outside and succulent within, creating a surprising and delicious contrast. In place of a traditional tortilla was a thin slice of jicama, which imparted a lightness that is rarely associated with tacos. A spicy aioli, fennel slaw, and a jalapeno sliver added the finishing touches.
Next, we were treated to an array of appetizers and pizzas, including (clockwise from top, left) a sweet corn ravioli with brown butter sage ($12), an off-the menu beef carpaccio with harissa and olive oil, a chorizo and quince pizza ($10), and an arugula, prosciutto, manchengo, and fried egg pizza ($10).
The sweet corn ravioli was executed brilliantly. Bathed in slick butter, the fresh pasta had an appealingly tender bite. The loose corn and mushroom accompaniments worked well in this dish. The chorizo, quince, and Asiago pizza was another favorite of mine. While pizza purists may scoff upon this unorthodox juxtaposition of flavors, I was all over the sweet and savory combination.
Chef Felix’s entrees, or “set-ups,” allow diners to pair their choice of protein with a preferred side dish to create a composed plate. She took this approach since she understands the frustration that diners undergo when the side dish of a different entrée sounds better than the pre-selected one.
For my entrée, I chose the braised beef short ribs with pomegranate reduction glaze ($26). For my side dish, I went with the farro with grilled asparagus, broccoli rabe, currants, toasted pine nuts, and roasted shallots. As with all great short ribs, Reservoir’s were tender and caramelized in all the right places. The bed of farro provided an apt and hearty pairing. I really liked this dish in the middle of August, but I imagine that it’d taste even better in the midst of a harsh California winter.
Chef Felix spoiled us with five different desserts, including (clockwise from top, left), ice cream sliders ($9), a lemon bar with fresh blueberries and crème fraiche gelato ($9), a peach and blueberry cobbler with brown sugar pecan crumble and condensed milk ice cream ($10), and an off-the menu banana cake with caramel sauce.
When the duo of ice cream sliders arrived, I wanted to hoard them all to myself, but alas, I was in the company of strangers and had to play nice. The scoops of house-made Nutella and strawberry ice cream were tucked between sweet Hawaiian bread buns. On the side were puff pastry “fries” and white chocolate and strawberry sauces. This quirky dessert was as tasty as it was cute.
My dining companions went gaga over The Chocolate Plate ($12), which included a molten chocolate and peanut butter cake, a milk chocolate caramel pot de crème, a vanilla strawberry compote, an iced mocha, a chocolate sorbet, and a chocolate hazelnut crisp. I’m not much of a chocolate-lover but went for seconds of the molten cake and the chocolate hazelnut crisp.
I had such a great experience at Reservoir that I’ve already planned a return visit. In the company of close friends, I won’t be afraid to duke it out for the ice cream sliders. Beware.
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Reservoir
1700 Silver Lake Boulevard
Los Angeles, CA 90026
Phone: 323-662-8655
It’s 9:30 AM on Saturday morning. I’m driving to a little dumpling shack called Dean Sin World in the city of Monterey Park—the first stop on an epic Food Marathon that will crisscross Los Angeles’ San Gabriel Valley in search of greatness in the form of Chinese food. The thermometer in my car reads 91 degrees, which is a bit harsh even for August in Southern California, but not surprising considering the week’s heatwave. I’m shaking in my sneakers and imagining the worst, but really, there’s no turning back.
My seven friends and I will Eat, Run, and Repeat, all in the name of good food, good health, and good fun. Indigestion and poor air quality be damned. By the end of our journey, we will have clocked in five miles and five meals. It’s the glory we’re after, for there will be no medals or cash prizes at the finish line. My comrades include, from left to right, The Astronomer, H.C. of L.A. and O.C. Foodventures and Foodie Fitness, gas•tron•o•my readers Andy and Hanh, Matthew of Mattatouille, Neil of Food Marathon, and Sook of Yutjangsah. I’m the gal with the neon orange headband and shorts.
And the gun goes off!
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Meal #1: Dean Sin World – Monterey Park
The San Gabriel Valley, which is home to the largest population of Chinese people outside of mainland China, is a carbo-loading paradise. The boulevards that stretch along the cities of San Gabriel, Alhambra, and Monterey Park are dotted with amazingly authentic eateries specializing in steamed meat-filled dumplings, crisply fried pancakes, and heaps of noodles. As every runner knows, carbohydrates and running go hand in hand.
At Dean Sin World, we were treated to a cold appetizer of sliced beef tendon while the ladies in the kitchen whipped up our spread. The first dish to arrive was the sweet and soupy “Wine Brew,” which consists of soft egg curds, sticky tubes of tapioca, and cooked rice in a bath of rice wine. Next to arrive was our order of xiao long bao, also known as soup dumplings. It’s hard to go wrong with juicy and savory pork wrapped in deliciously pliable wrappers.
It wasn’t exactly soup weather outside, but Ms. Lu’s Lion’s Head Soup with Napa cabbage and glass noodles hit the spot perfectly. The name of the dish refers to the soup’s soft and plump meatballs, which seem to be bound together by the lightest touch. From Dean Sin World, we ran .2 miles to Mama’s Lu.
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Meal #2: Mama’s Lu – Monterey Park
At Mama’s Lu, we dug into a most excellent Green Onion Cake that was crisp, slightly chewy, flaky, and not bogged down by too much oil. The chopped scallions provided a splash of color and flavor. I tried to convince my teammates to order another plate, but they were far too reasonable to agree. Mama’s Lu’s fried pork dumplings was everyone’s least favorite item of the day. The outer skin was overly bread-y, while the innards were mushy and lacked integrity.
The Shanghai Rice Cakes were a hit and one of my favorite dishes of the day. The smooth discs of joy were sauteed with pork, mushrooms, carrots, scallions, and cabbage in a soy-based sauce. The rice cakes’ quick fry in the wok imparted an overall smoky quality to the dish.
After our second meal, The Astronomer and I strolled down Mama’s Lu‘s corridor, while Mr. Food Marathon took off like a champ. For a self-proclaimed non-runner, Neil sure did have a bad-ass stride.
From Mama’s Lu, we pounded the pavement for 1.8 miles to 101 Noodle Express in Alhambra. We averaged 9 minutes and 15 seconds per mile.
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Meal #3: 101 Noodle Express – Alhambra
At 101 Noodle Express, we gorged on steamed pumpkin and shrimp dumplings and cold Dan Dan noodles. Even after eating two meals prior and cranking out 2 miles, each and every one of us was thankfully able to appreciate the dishes. Sweat just adds a bit of savoriness, right?
101 Noodle Express‘ specialty is the Shandong beef roll, which is comprised of a fried wheat pancake smeared with a hoisin-like bean paste and stuffed with fresh cilantro and thin cuts of beef. Oh goodness, this was fantastically tasty.
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Meal #4: Bamboodles Restaurant – San Gabriel
From 101 Noodle Express, we jammed over to Bamboodles Restaurant, which was only 489 feet away. Bamboodles Restaurant is the first American outlet of a small chain originating in Guangdong Xinhui. Here, noodles are made the old-fashioned way by an unselfconscious man bouncing up and down on a long bamboo rod.
We started off with pleasantly bouncy fried fish balls smothered in chili oil. Then, we moved on to perfectly refreshing spinach and pork noodles served over crushed ice.
Based on H.C.’s recommendation, we also ordered the spicy wontons. They tasted so good going in, but I’ve gotta admit, during the next leg of my run, they didn’t taste so hot. Burp!
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Meal #5: Kingburg Kitchen – San Gabriel
From Bamboodles Restaurant, we ran 1.7 miles to Kingburg Kitchen in San Gabriel. The temperature was well over 100 degrees at this point in the day, but everyone made it safely and soundly to our final savory destination. We drank a lot of water when we arrived.
At Kingburg Kitchen, we enjoyed two cold appetizers—beef tendon with bean curd and a salad of tofu strands. We also went for an order of their house special fried pork and leek dumplings. Unlike the disappointing ones at Mama’s Lu, these had an ideal ratio of filling to wrapper, and were much better in texture.
The scallion flecked Kingburg Pancake was just what I wanted to nosh on after running in the brutal heat. Refined flours go down so easily.
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Meal #6: Blue Cherry – Alhambra
For the final leg of the food marathon, we ran 1.2 miles to Blue Cherry Yogurt Bar, where we cooled off with Beijing-style yogurt. Served in a paper-topped clay jar, the cold, creamy, and tart yogurt coated our stomachs with its smooth goodness, providing the perfect conclusion to the day.
Thank you very much to Foodbuzz for footing the bill, and my brave friends for agreeing to this crazy endeavor. We finished 5.1 miles at just under 10-minute pace—48 minutes and 7 seconds. It was a treat, a real treat, but a different kind of treat altogether.
And a very special thank you to Matthew of Mattatouille for beautifully photographing the event and putting together this excellent video.
[Check out the course map here and click below for a full list of restaurants. For more shenanigans, follow me @GastronomyBlog.]
