There’s been a lot of chatter about Joshua Skenes’ restaurant Angler. Critics have dissected, examined, and contextualized nearly every element of the restaurant — from its ambition to expand to its commitment to sustainability and its questionable location within an aging indoor mall. Overdue for some shine is the restaurant’s magnificent open-fire cooking and unexpected flavor combinations. That’s where I come in.
My friend Sarah and I came in for a weeknight dinner and were seated by the fish tanks. The room, filled with warm lighting and well-appointed furnishings, was more casual than anticipated in a welcome and comfortable way.
To sip, a pina colada made with mezcal, coconut, and amontillado. My dining companion enjoyed an Old Fashioned.
Dinner began with a bang, as caviar service arrived on a gold-plated cart. General manager Bryce Vaughan generously dolloped a full ounce of caviar ($69) atop warm banana pancakes slathered with banana butter.
The banana’s ripened sweetness paired delightfully with the intrinsically salty caviar. The unexpected flavors, textures, and temperatures made this first bite one to remember.
Also fantastically memorable was the radicchio with radicchio X.O. ($15). The alchemy to transform one of the bitterest leafy vegetables into something crave-worthy was extraordinarily impressive — sherry vinegar punched up the volume while crispy-fried shallots provided interest and crunch.
The antelope tartare ($18) arrived with lettuce cups for wrapping. As a beef tartare enthusiast, I appreciated this sustainable take that didn’t compromise on flavor one bit.
The best way to eat live spot prawns ($18 each) is with abandon — carefully extracting the head from its body, slurping the cranial juices, gnashing each antenna, and licking fingers along the way. Angler’s addictively spicy marinade made for a messy and irresistible course.
The grilled Parker House rolls served with cultured butter ($10) were perfect for soaking up the marinade.
Keeping things spicy was the perfectly grilled striped sea bass ($32) slathered with a thick paste of chile crisps.
Served alongside was Chinese eggplant “buried in the embers” ($9)…
…and Angler potatoes served with cheese sauce ($13) — just look at the layers on those wedges!
And finally, vanilla soft serve with gooey, drippy caramel sauce.
Dinner at Angler was truly phenomenal from start to finish. Every understated course over-delivered with impeccable execution and standout flavors. If this is the future of American seafood chains — bring it on.
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Angler
8500 Beverly Boulevard, Suite 117
Los Angeles, CA 90048
Phone: 424-332-4082
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Three years ago: Slacker.
Four years ago: Slacker.
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Eleven years ago: Vegetation Profile: Royal Riviera Pears
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