Apr 2009

Kingburg Kitchen – San Gabriel

Whenever I walk into a Chinese eatery in the San Gabriel Valley, there’s a very good chance that I’ll be greeted cheerily by the proprietress in Chinese. After saying “ni hao” with confidence, I usually have to come clean and confess that I’m actually Vietnamese.

Sharing a common language has an easy way of making people feel comfortable. Whenever I can’t come through in the conversation department, I find myself resorting to universal signs of satisfaction like smiling wide, giving a thumbs up, and rubbing my belly.

English doesn’t go very far at Kingburg Kitchen, but fortunately, pantomiming works like a charm.

During a mid-week lunch with my friend Carissa, we each ordered Kingburg’s noodle and dumpling combo ($6-7). From the limited menu, we both selected spicy beef noodle soup and boiled pork, sea cucumber, and shrimp dumplings. The only downside to Kingburg’s combos is that pan-fried dumplings are excluded.

The soup arrived first. The generously portioned bowl of noodles came out of the kitchen steaming hot. From the moment the broth’s spicy aroma hit my nostrils, I knew this soup was going to be outta sight. As I slurped my way through the hunks of tender and pleasantly fatty meat, bits of pickled mustard greens, and delicate egg noodles, beads of content sweat formed across my nose. Kingburg makes a fantastically good bowl of spicy beef noodle soup.

The pork-, sea cucumber-, and shrimp-filled dumplings arrived minutes after the noodles. The boiled parcels would’ve tasted fine on their own, but they bordered on bland eaten alongside the bold soup. To bring the dumplings up a few savory notches, I drizzled them in excessive amounts of chili oil.

After downing five dumplings and a large bowl of spicy beef noodle each, Carissa and I waddled out of Kingburg immensely satisfied.

The Astronomer and I, along with our friend Shay whom we met in Vietnam, returned to Kingburg a few evenings later for dinner. This time around, we shared one combo (spicy beef noodle soup and sole dumplings), a bowl of sesame noodles ($4.50), and an order of pan-fried pork and leek dumplings ($6.50).

Served hot, the “sesame” noodles turned out to be intensely peanut buttery. Even though I was hoping they’d resemble something like the cold sesame noodles I savored in Hong Kong, they tasted more like the peanut noodles I sampled at the Muslim Quarter in Xi’an. The addition of chili oil made these sticky noodles even tastier.

The boiled sole dumplings were on par with the dumplings I ate with Carissa, but the pan-fried pork dumplings were a bit of a let down. Although the skins had a nice golden sear, the wrappers were too thin and the pork filling didn’t ooze with porcine juices like the specimens at Dean Sin World and Luscious Dumplings.

Kingburg Kitchen
715 W. Las Tunas Drive
San Gabriel, CA 91776
Phone: 626-282-2386

Apr 2009

Jin Patisserie – Los Angeles (Venice)

Jin Patisserie is a chick magnet.

Offering handcrafted chocolates, dainty sandwiches, artisanal teas, and painfully beautiful cakes, it’s no surprise that Jin has to fight females off with a stick.

I visited Jin Patisserie with my gal pals Laurie and Bex one sunny Saturday afternoon. Jin’s famously soothing courtyard was fairly empty when we arrived, so we had our pick of tables—we chose one in the sun.

After hemming and hawing over the menu long enough for our waitress to look slightly peeved, all three of us settled on the lunch set. The set included a sandwich of our choice, green salad, chips, and the Cake of the Day.

Bex and I selected the smoked salmon sandwich ($15.50); Bex ordered hers on white bread, while I chose an olive loaf. In addition to smoked salmon, the fixins included thin slices of cucumber and onion, Romaine lettuce, and a shmear of cream cheese. Bex and I liked the sandwich very much, but truth be told, there are limits to how good a cold sandwich can be.

With dreams of Euro Pane dancing in her head, Laurie chose the egg salad sandwich on Ciabatta ($13). Unfortunately, Jin’s creation didn’t come close to matching Sumi Chang’s open-faced beauty.

In regards to the sides, all three of us agreed that the chips tasted just like Lay’s. Laurie desired and expected something more “la-di-da and homemade tasting.” The salad was uninteresting rabbit food. In fact, it was so boring that Bex couldn’t even bring herself to eat it.

The highlight of our Jin Patisserie outing were the cakes. Kristy Choo, the proprietor, learned about food while growing up in Singapore and traveling regularly to Japan as a flight attendant. Her desserts have a distinct style that is aesthetically interesting and palate pleasing.

The Cake of the Day on our visit was a Lavender Gateaux (lavender butter cream layered with dark chocolate ganache on lavender sponge). The Lavender Gateaux didn’t appeal to any of us, so we accepted the $3 surcharge to substitute it for delights that better suited our fancy.

Bex chose the Inspiration (left – soft caramel with bitter-sweet chocolate with a touch of sea salt), while Laurie and I selected the Spring Bouquet (right – fluffy meringue, light exotic cream, fresh mango, and strawberries), which is served on weekends only.

Bex was thoroughly delighted by her Inspiration. The small nibble I had was salty and lovely. Laurie and I adored our Spring Bouquet as well. Laurie said that it was the lightest dessert she’d ever eaten and that it tasted like a sunny day. I agreed on both fronts.

As we paid our bill, Bex, Laurie, and I agreed to return to Jin Patisserie again. However, next time around we’ll lunch elsewhere because even though the cakes here truly take the cake, the sandwiches don’t offer enough bang for our buck.

Jin Patisserie
1202 Abbot Kinney Boulevard
Venice, CA 90291
Phone: 310-399-8801

Apr 2009

BonChon Chicken – Los Angeles (Koreatown)

As soon as the Astronomer and I got engaged, our families and friends wanted to know if we’d set a date. It’s been nearly two months since The Astronomer popped the question, and no date is in sight. Our thinking was location first, then choose a date based on the facility’s availability. We’re trying to be as rational and logical as possible throughout this b-a-n-a-n-a-s process.

On our first afternoon of scoping out possible locations, The Astronomer and I visited The London West Hollywood and The Oviatt Penthouse in downtown L.A. We loved the rooftop and the English gardens at The London, but The Oviatt’s old Hollywood vibe wasn’t really our style. After thoroughly inspecting the two venues, we skipped over to BonChon Chicken in Koreatown for lunch. Wedding planning, like all proper endurance sports, really works up an appetite.

Similar to Chicken Day and arch-nemesis KyoChon, food orders at BonChon are placed up front at the cash register. While the chicken meets the deep-fryer—not once, but twice—patrons must patiently twiddle their thumbs. The wait time at BonChon is comparable to competitors, but a bit more exciting thanks to the compressed napkins distributed to diners.

To entertain ourselves during the tortuously long lull, I made a movie starring The Astronomer titled, “Napkin Fun @ BonChon.” It’s a riot, I promise.

Before our chicken arrived, we were each served a complimentary dish of coleslaw. The thinly sliced red and green cabbage was drizzled in a pleasant Thousand Island dressing. The coleslaw tasted worlds better than the bizarre ketchup and mayonnaise concoction at KyoChon up the street.

We were also served a complimentary dish of refreshing pickled radish cubes.

After a solid twenty minutes of twiddling our thumbs and making silly movies, the chicken finally arrived tableside. Our large order of wings ($15.99), half soy-garlic (left) and half spicy (right), was enticingly presented in a wicker basket.

The texture of both varieties was spot-on, with the requisite KFC snap wholly present. Flavor-wise, The Astronomer and I favored the soy-garlic variety for its dangerously addictive umami properties. The spicy ones were really tasty as well, but we both desired a hotter glaze—more burning, please.

BonChon is a formidable competitor in Los Angeles’ KFC battle, but KyoChon wins by a nose.

POWER RANKINGS

KyoChon > Bonchon > Chicken Day > Hite Kwang-Jang.

Bonchon Chicken
3407 W. 6th Street
Los Angeles, CA 90020
Phone: 213-487-7878

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BonChon in Los Angeles