Dec 2019

Manuela – Los Angeles (Downtown)

Manuela - Los Angeles (Downtown)

If I were the kind of monogamous diner that frequented the same restaurants time and again, I’d totally be a regular at Manuela. Located in the Hauser & Wirth complex in the Arts District, the restaurant has everything I want — thoughtful cooking that balances flavor and freshness, all served in an urban yet serene space.

Manuela - Los Angeles (Downtown)

I came in for lunch a few months back and was taken by Chef Kris Tominaga’s cooking, which draws inspiration from Southern ingredients and traditions, along with California’s produce and a distinct culinary point of view.

Manuela - Los Angeles (Downtown)

To start, a light and refreshing Gulf pink shrimp aguachile with avocado, radish, ginger, lime, and benne seeds ($18). The vegetable chips served on the side provided a fine vehicle.

Manuela - Los Angeles (Downtown)

Certain smells and flavors have a way of bringing back food memories, and one slurp of the barbecued oysters ($15) instantly transported me to the crowded shores of Tomales Bay — the home of Hog Island Oyster Co. The grilled bivalves arrived punctuated with Calabrian chili butter and Parmesan, creating a profile that teetered between briny and spicy, rich and balanced.

Manuela - Los Angeles (Downtown)

Also fantastic was the burrata with smoked trout roe, cherry tomatoes, perilla salt, and grilled toast ($19). Nearly every restaurant in town serves some version of this mild and gooey cheese, but this version stood out with its oceanic flourish.

Manuela - Los Angeles (Downtown)

Years ago, Chef Tominaga baked these cream biscuits at Hart and the Hunter, and now they’re back at Manuela ($11). Served with Steen’s butter and Col. Newsom’s aged country ham, the biscuits were as flaky and rich as ever.

Manuela - Los Angeles (Downtown)

The heftiest dish on the table was the grass-fed beef tartare with capers, garden greens, and garlic toast ($18); a straightforward take on a classic.

Manuela - Los Angeles (Downtown)

To round out our lunchtime feast was an order of wood-grilled okra with cucumber yogurt and sumac ($12)…

Manuela - Los Angeles (Downtown)

…and blistered snap peas with black quinoa, sesame date butter, and feta ($12).

You’re beautiful, Manuela! Looking forward to coming in for dinner and brunch in 2020.

Manuela
907 East 3rd Street
Los Angeles, CA 90013
Phone: 323-849-0480

One year agoRustic Canyon – Santa Monica
Two years ago: Afternoon Tea at The Huntington – Pasadena
Three years ago: 
Slacker.
Four years ago:
 Slacker.
Five years ago: 
Lu’s Garden – San Gabriel
Six years ago: 
Sushi Kanesaka – Tokyo
Seven years ago: {swoon} Pani Puri at Surati Farsan Mart
Eight years ago: White Truffle Dinner at Valentino Ristorante – Los Angeles (Santa Monica)
Nine years ago: Bouchon Bakery – Las Vegas (The Venetian)
Ten years ago: Good Girl Dinette – Los Angeles (Highland Park)
Eleven years ago: Vegetation Profile: Royal Riviera Pears
Twelve years ago: Bánh Mì Cá Sardine
Thirteen years ago: Brasserie Perrier – Philadelphia

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