The dining room at Asterid was packed to the gills when my friend Bill and I arrived for our 6:30 p.m. reservation back in June. But even before our cocktails hit the table, the crowd quickly emptied for a concert happening at the adjoining Walt Disney Concert Hall. It was wild to be bumping elbows one minute, then having the place to ourselves the next.

Once the concert-goers vacated the premises, Bill and I sipped some cocktails while perusing the menu. I had the mezcal highball ($19) while taking in the peaceful room.

To start, a Tetra squash tamal with a heap of Schrenckii caviar, Beurre de Baratte (really good butter), and crema ($93).

We also shared the beef tartare with summer truffle and creme fraiche ($57). Served on the side was the thickest, butteriest focaccia.

The silky chicken liver mousse ($19) came topped with Sequoia cherries, pickled red onions, and arugula. Thinly-sliced, oil-slicked, and toasted sourdough made for a fine liver delivery vehicle.

Then came the New England-style octopus rolls ($21) with aleppo yogurt and pickled cabbage slaw.

The red beet risotto made with Carnaroli rice and plenty of dill ($27) was my favorite dish of the evening. Served comfortingly warm, the creme fraiche-fortified porridge tasted wonderfully rich and herbaceous with a mild hum of sweet beets.

The final savory of the night was the massive lamb shank served with a charred eggplant puree, pickled cabbage, and warm flatbread ($59).

A close up of the most excellent charred eggplant puree with chile japones.

For dessert, a rice Pudding with strong Chez l’Ami Jean vibes made with organic Sweet Rose rice, coconut cream, and passion fruit ($13). Pure lusciousness and then some.

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Asterid
141 S Grand Avenue
Los Angeles, CA 90012

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One year ago: Bridgetown Roti – Los Angeles
Two years ago: Feasts from my trunk: Taiwanese Breakfast, Cambodian Sausages, and more
Three years ago: {swoon} Spiked Lemon at Spago Las Vegas
Four years ago: {swoon} Anchovy Pizzetta from Chez Panisse Cafe
Five years ago: The Arthur J – Manhattan Beach
Six years ago: Slacker.
Seven years ago: N/Naka – Los Angeles
Eight years ago: {swoon} Grilled Cheese with Pastrami at The Hat
Night years ago: “Old Chengdu Traditional Dishes” at Dan Dan Tian Shui Mian – Chengdu
Ten years ago: Umami Burger – Pasadena
Eleven years ago: Son of a Gun – Los Angeles
Twelve years ago: Crest Cafe – San Diego (Hillcrest)
Thirteen years ago: Maple Bacon Biscuits
Fourteen years ago: Phở Hòa- San Diego
Fifteen years ago: Cơm Tấm – Broken Rice
Sixteen years ago: Jim ‘N Nick’s – Birmingham