The Astronomer, June, and I had a wonderful trip to Baja back in June. Our last visit to the area was in November 2019, so this return was long overdue. We stayed overnight at my mom’s place in San Diego before setting off for Mexico in the morning. Our first stop was Popotla, a small fishing village in Rosarito.

The homie Bill Esparza insisted that Mariscos La Estrella was a must-stop before heading to the Valle (and of course, he was so right). The restaurant was mostly empty when we arrived, save for the large group having a very loud, but very fun banda-serenaded lunch.

We nibbled on a very good shrimp ceviche ($150) while waiting for the main attraction to arrive.

The specialty here is spider crab (marciano) sauteed in an incredible garlic sauce. To reveal the sweet flesh, we pounded the crab legs caveman-style using a smooth rock and wooden board.

The best part was sopping up the crab’s marinated guts with warm flour tortillas.

It was a deliciously messy affair and I cannot wait to return to eat this magnificent Martian again.

Following lunch, we drove to the Valle de Guadelupe and checked in at Lumi. It was our second stay at this Nordic-slash-Mexican hotel. The accommodations are simple but comfortable, which is just our speed.

For dinner, we went to the restaurant run by chef Michelle Aiko at the Xaroma winery next door.

We weren’t too hungry after feasting in Rosarito, but managed to free up some gastro real estate for the occassion. To start, The Astronomer and I shared the aguachile de tamarindo ($250) and the tiradito de atun ($300). Raw shrimp should always come slathered in tamarind sauce.

For our mains, June ordered the pasta campestre ($180), while The Astronomer and I had the conchinita ($220).

The following morning we headed to Wa Kumiai Tabita, where Tabita Dominguez serves up northern Mexican and indigenous dishes. The alfresco restaurant is located in San Antonio Necua, a Kumiai village.

Our breakfast started with a prickly pear salad ($80).

The beef machaca with beans ($180) and barbacoa de borrego ($65) were served with plush, handmade flour tortillas. It was a hearty start to the day.

Next we hiked and climbed around El Salto canyon. We didn’t make it to the waterfall this time, but will return in the future when June’s more into hiking.

The best reward for a sweaty afternoon of physical exertion is sipping a fresh coconut and nibbling on its satisfying meat.

For dinner we returned to Fauna, one of my all-time favorite restaurants in the Valle de Guadelupe. The grounds are spectacular, so definitely arrive early or stay late to wander and take in the views.

While we ordered the tasting menu on our first visit, we opted for an a la carte experience this time around. Though both are lovely choices, crafting our own adventure suited us much better. To start, a very stiff and tasty “corn fashioned” ($260).

We shared a few botanas to start, including the clams ($220), abalone ($290), and June’s favorite, wagyu sopes ($210).

The highlight of the night for me the lettuce with mackerel and seaweed ($240) served with freshly made flour tortillas.

Also excellent from the tatemados section of the menu was the pork salpicon ($590) served with warm blue corn tortillas. Rounding out the savories were the beef gizzards ($260), lamb with chilhuacle ($690), and one last dish whose contents escape me now.

For dessert, a warm churro with guava paste ($210).

Lumi at night is quite the sight.

We started the next day off with pastries from Alveolo — a great recommendation from Midtown Lunch. The concha was tops.

Lunch at chef Drew Deckman’s Conchas de Piedra was as lovely as anticipated.

Oysters on the half shell served with a mignonette flight: fermented habanero, harissa citrus, cucumber, and traditional ($215 for a half dozen).

Abalone aguachile ($380) with tomato, cucumber, citrus, serrano pepper, and white onion.

Grilled abalone ($380) with guacachile and black recado.

Roasted oysters with chile butter, pork rind, and epazote ($360 for a half dozen). Rounding out the glorious midday seafood feast was the poke ($360), oyster tacos ($280), and seafood tostada with pickled mussels, geoduck, and chocolata clams ($280).

The final dinner of the trip took us to chef Alfredo Villanueva’s Villa Torél. The restaurant’s flavors, hospitality, and views did not disappoint.

Every dish that graced our table was truly phenomenal, especially the pickled mussels with macha and chicatana sauce ($285).

Yellowtail amberjack with rhubarb and tahini ($360).

Grilled eggplant with labneh and smoked fish ($265).

Duck with a demi glace and sorrel leaves ($595). Not pictured were delectable roasted carrots in duck jus and brown butter ($215) and a fork-tender glazed hunk of New York beef slow-cooked with lemon confit and chayote ($1,495).

To finish, slices of a date and almond tart with Papantla vanilla ice cream ($191) and a pistachio and chocolate tart ($191).

Before departing the Valle and its beautiful surroundings, breakfast was enjoyed on the rooftop of our container at Lumi. The homemade bread keeps us coming back time and again. Until next year…

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One year ago: Bridgetown Roti – Los Angeles
Two years ago: Feasts from my trunk: Taiwanese Breakfast, Cambodian Sausages, and more
Three years ago: {swoon} Spiked Lemon at Spago Las Vegas
Four years ago: {swoon} Anchovy Pizzetta from Chez Panisse Cafe
Five years ago: The Arthur J – Manhattan Beach
Six years ago: Slacker.
Seven years ago: N/Naka – Los Angeles
Eight years ago: {swoon} Grilled Cheese with Pastrami at The Hat
Night years ago: “Old Chengdu Traditional Dishes” at Dan Dan Tian Shui Mian – Chengdu
Ten years ago: Umami Burger – Pasadena
Eleven years ago: Son of a Gun – Los Angeles
Twelve years ago: Crest Cafe – San Diego (Hillcrest)
Thirteen years ago: Maple Bacon Biscuits
Fourteen years ago: Phở Hòa- San Diego
Fifteen years ago: Cơm Tấm – Broken Rice
Sixteen years ago: Jim ‘N Nick’s – Birmingham