The Astronomer and I traversed large swaths of Chengdu seeking out all that burns, numbs, and thrills during our much-too-short stay, but it was a low-key, family-run restaurant a stone’s throw from our hotel that delighted us most.
Named after Confucian principles (ren meaning kindness and yi meaning loyalty or trust), Ren Yi Shui Jiao specializes in two of my all-time favorite foods: noodles and dumplings (shui jiao). It was the perfect spot to fuel up every morning before playing with pandas and, truth be told, fueling up elsewhere. Such is life while on vacation.
The restaurant was wonderfully quiet during the morning hours, with ladies folding dumplings in the back, cooks simmering soups in the kitchen, and solo diners burying their noses in noodles. The mood of the place made us feel relaxed, while smiles on everyone’s faces made us feel welcomed.
Ordering food was a breeze thanks to the extensive picture menu hanging near the doorway. I wanted one of everything.
I averaged 2.5 bowls of dan dan mian per day while in Chengdu because I simply could not resist ordering it at every opportunity.
The version here went relatively light on the chili oil and heavier on the protein than other bowls we sampled in the city. As always, the ma la crept up on us slowly but surely.
We also shared an order of long chao shou (dragon wontons). These thick-skinned, pork-stuffed, chili oil-slathered dumplings boasted plenty of bounce to the ounce, if you know what I mean. Mmm!
We returned to Ren Yi Shui Jiao the following day for more early morning noodle and dumpling action.
First up was a bowl of yu xiang pai gu mian, a Sichuan-style pork shoulder noodle soup. The oil-slicked broth was milder than expected, while the hunks of pork were perfectly tender. A hearty start to the day to be sure.
Since most everything we ate in Chengdu came covered in a fiery chili oil, we changed things up this morning and ordered a simple wonton soup. It soothed and comforted like no other.
Restaurants like Ren Yi Shui Jiao are the reason why we love traveling to Asia so much—soulful fare, fair prices, and smiling faces.
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Ren Yi Shui Jiao (click on link for Google map)
Wing On Street (near the intersection of Da Qiang West Street)
Chengdu, Sichuan, China
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Our previous culinary exploits in the People’s Republic of China:
Beijing
- B-Ballin’ in Beijing
- Eating in Chaoyang
- Farewell Fuwa*
- Maison Boulud – Beijing
- Peking Duck at Da Dong (with a side of baseball)
- The Great Wall of China
- Track ‘n’ Snacks in the Bird’s Nest
Chengdu
- “Old Chengdu Traditional Dishes” at Dan Dan Tian Shui Mian – Chengdu
- Lozzi Donuts & Coffee – Chengdu
- Postcards from the Road: People’s Republic of China, Better Late than Censored
Hong Kong
- Bo Innovation
- Eating in Hong Kong I
- Eating in Hong Kong II
- Eating in Hong Kong III
- Eating in Hong Kong IV
Kunming
Shanghai
- Happy Mid-Autumn Moon Festival
- Henan-Style Hand-Pulled Noodles at Zheng Zhong He Nan La Mian Guan – Shanghai
- Lánxīn Cāntīng – Shanghai
- Postcards from the Road: People’s Republic of China, Better Late than Censored
- Shanghai Suppin’: Dumpling Soup & Rice Cakes
- Striking Street Food Gold: 10 Fabulous Finds on South Yunnan Road – Shanghai
- Xiao Long Bao in Shanghai: Jia Jia Tang Bao
- Xiao Long Bao in Shanghai: Xiao Jin Ling
Xi’an
Everything looks amazing- I love thick-skinned dumplings in chili oil and wish I had a big bowl right this minute. Did you have this place on your list or did you randomly find it? Great pic of the girl making the dumplings, too:).