Exploring local markets, carefully selecting souvenirs and nibbling from stall to stall, is one of my all-time favorite things to do while on the road.
Reflecting on recent trips, my mind drifts to the sunny afternoon The Astronomer and I spent picnicking outside Valencia’s Mercado Central (those strawberries!), and the lovely walk along the canals of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue at the Sunday market in Provence (those sausages!).
While in Chengdu, we made equally splendid memories at Yulin Comprehensive Market, which was tucked behind an extensive housing complex and surrounded by a bustling park.
Just outside the market’s entrance were clusters of local folks sipping tea, chatting, and gambling. Chengdu residents are famous for their laid back lifestyle.
Our first snack of the day was freshly fried and served up warm…
We found a tang you guo zi (糖油果子) vendor as we approached the market from the south. These warm doughnut balls, slicked with caramel, sprinkled with sesame seeds, and speared through with a skewer, were wonderfully crisp on the outside and airy and glutinous on the inside.
I loved how the caramel coating teetered on a very fine line between sweet and burnt.
After downing our doughnuts, The Astronomer and I strolled through the market to take in the incredible, edible scenery. These barbecued (and headless) rabbits looked quite tasty, but alas, it was too much food for the two of us.
Snouts. Stacked and ready to be taken home.
This vendor’s selection of prepared appetizers was incredible. I regret not purchasing a few grams of each for a taste! My head must’ve been in too excitable a state.
And then there were spices: mounds upon mounds of dried peppercorns and chilies, the keystones of Sichuan’s famous cuisine.
I spent a solid fifteen minutes gawking at the vendor making fresh noodles. These wheat strands of various lengths and widths were destined for greatness in the hands of a skilled cook.
I was deeply taken with the blue colored eggs…
…as well as the century eggs, which were covered in something or other to introduce hydroxide ions and sodium into the eggs. Neat!
On the second floor of the market, we found vendors specializing in soy and mung beans, both fresh and processed into tofu and curd.
The second floor was also devoted to meat (and lots of it). It was kinda sorta fun (and twisted) trying to identify the animal on sale at each stand.
In the midst of all the mung beans and carcasses was a random man selling mushrooms. I’d never encountered fungi that looked like this before!
While there were plenty of prepared food options at the market, snacks portioned for immediate consumption were a little harder to find.
We managed to locate a woman selling chuan bei liang fen (川北凉粉). These mung bean noodles were translucent and slippery with a balanced profile of sour and spicy.
And finally, we purchased three yu mi bing (玉米饼) for the road.
The griddled corn cakes tasted soft and mostly sweet. They weren’t the most exciting bites ever, but still a fine finish to a morning well spent.
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Yulin Comprehensive Market (click on link for Google map)
12 Yulin W Street
Wuhou, Chengdu, Sichuan, China, 610041
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Our previous culinary exploits in the People’s Republic of China:
Beijing
- B-Ballin’ in Beijing
- Eating in Chaoyang
- Farewell Fuwa*
- Maison Boulud – Beijing
- Peking Duck at Da Dong (with a side of baseball)
- The Great Wall of China
- Track ‘n’ Snacks in the Bird’s Nest
Chengdu
- “Cold Pot Fish” at Yu Yue Men Leng Guo Yu (and getting ma la wasted) – Chengdu
- “Old Chengdu Traditional Dishes” at Dan Dan Tian Shui Mian – Chengdu
- Lozzi Donuts & Coffee – Chengdu
- Postcards from the Road: People’s Republic of China, Better Late than Censored
- Quintessential Sichuan Noodles and Dumplings Served with a Smile at Ren Yi Shui Jiao – Chengdu
Hong Kong
- Bo Innovation
- Eating in Hong Kong I
- Eating in Hong Kong II
- Eating in Hong Kong III
- Eating in Hong Kong IV
Kunming
Shanghai
- Happy Mid-Autumn Moon Festival
- Henan-Style Hand-Pulled Noodles at Zheng Zhong He Nan La Mian Guan – Shanghai
- Lánxīn Cāntīng – Shanghai
- Postcards from the Road: People’s Republic of China, Better Late than Censored
- Shanghai Suppin’: Dumpling Soup & Rice Cakes
- Striking Street Food Gold: 10 Fabulous Finds on South Yunnan Road – Shanghai
- Xiao Long Bao in Shanghai: Jia Jia Tang Bao
- Xiao Long Bao in Shanghai: Xiao Jin Ling
Xi’an