I had my sights set on a down home, classically Sichuan “fly restaurant” called Ming Ting for my final supper in Chengdu. This bare-bones eatery earned its nickname because it is said to attract diners like flies.

As was usually the case in China whenever I had my heart set on a particular dining destination, we were unable to locate it due to a lack of a proper address. After wandering down Jinfangyuan Road for 45 minutes in search of the illusive Ming Ting, we finally called it quits and ducked inside Zha Zha Mian Jia Chang Cai for a taste of “home common food.”

I selected this restaurant on the fly (ha!) because the cold appetizers out front looked promising, while the men drinking outside were having a jolly time. Our dinner at Zha Zha Mian Jia Chang Cai ended up being one of my favorites of the entire trip.

We selected a trio of cold appetizers to start, including snappy green beans and shredded potatoes, wilted just so and lightly dressed. Both were simple, straightforward, and fantastic.

Taking a cue from the friendly business man dining beside us, we also ordered a serving of the head cheese. Dressed in numbing and spicy chili oil and a smattering of green onions, this cold appetizer left us feeling warm and fuzzy.

The same businessman insisted that we sample the twice-cooked pork, which turned out to be the best dish I tasted in Chengdu!

The process of preparing this Sichuan specialty involves simmering pork belly in water and aromatics, refrigerating the belly until firm, slicing it thinly, and then cooking it once more in a scorching wok. The result was intensely flavorful meat with beautifully caramelized edges simply flavored with scallions and chili oil. The best!

Our final dish was the “fish fragrant eggplant,” a quintessential Sichuan preparation that imbues silky aubergines with a hot, sour, salty, and sweet flavor profile. Fuchsia Dunlop waxes poetic about this dish in her memoir Shark’s Fin and Sichuan Pepper, which I was reading while on the road, so I was especially stoked to dig in. Eaten with heaps of steamed jasmine rice, the eggplant was as satisfying and delicious as I had hoped.

Although unplanned, this meal of Sichuan-style  home cooking on our final night in town proved to be perfect in every way. Mmm!

I’m gonna miss this place!

—

Zha Zha Mian Jia Chang Cai (click on link for Google map)
Chengdu, Sichuan, China

–

Our previous culinary exploits in the People’s Republic of China:

Beijing

• B-Ballin’ in Beijing
• Eating in Chaoyang
• Farewell Fuwa*
• Maison Boulud – Beijing
• Peking Duck at Da Dong (with a side of baseball)
• The Great Wall of China
• Track ‘n’ Snacks in the Bird’s Nest

Chengdu

• “Cold Pot Fish” at Yu Yue Men Leng Guo Yu (and getting ma la wasted) – Chengdu
• “Old Chengdu Traditional Dishes” at Dan Dan Tian Shui Mian – Chengdu
• Lozzi Donuts & Coffee – Chengdu
• Postcards from the Road: People’s Republic of China, Better Late than Censored
• Quintessential Sichuan Noodles and Dumplings Served with a Smile at Ren Yi Shui Jiao – Chengdu
• Sichuan “Tofu Flower” Specialists at Xiao Tan Dou Hua – Chengdu
• Yulin Comprehensive Market – Chengdu

Hong Kong

• Bo Innovation
• Eating in Hong Kong I
• Eating in Hong Kong II
• Eating in Hong Kong III
• Eating in Hong Kong IV

Kunming

• Eating in Kunming I
• Eating in Kunming II
• Eating in Kunming III
• The Road to Bejing: Heiku to Kunming

Shanghai

• Happy Mid-Autumn Moon Festival
• Henan-Style Hand-Pulled Noodles at Zheng Zhong He Nan La Mian Guan – Shanghai
• Lánxīn Cāntīng – Shanghai
• Postcards from the Road: People’s Republic of China, Better Late than Censored
• Shanghai Suppin’: Dumpling Soup & Rice Cakes
• Striking Street Food Gold: 10 Fabulous Finds on South Yunnan Road – Shanghai
• Xiao Long Bao in Shanghai: Jia Jia Tang Bao
• Xiao Long Bao in Shanghai: Xiao Jin Ling

Xi’an

• Eating in Xi’an I
• Eating in Xi’an II