Mar 2016

Little Sister – Los Angeles (Downtown)

Little Sister - Los Angeles (Downtown)

The original Little Sister in Manhattan Beach has always piqued my interest, but I never got around to dining there because: Bacon Cheddar Buttermilk Biscuits. You know how it goes. It took a shiny new Downtown outlet, as well as the initiative of a few colleagues, for me to finally make my way here. And let me tell you, it was well worth the wait.

Little Sister - Los Angeles (Downtown) Here at this newish and very bustling spot, Chef Tin Vuong cooks up solid Vietnamese and Asian-inspired fare. Drawing from family recipes and his San Gabriel Valley roots, Chef Vuong’s creations are beautifully composed, boldly flavored, and straight-up tasty.

Little Sister - Los Angeles (Downtown)

To start, our party ordered one of every item under the “Introductions” section of the menu. First up was the house-made sesame sourdough baguette with Echire AOC butter and sea salt ($5).

Little Sister - Los Angeles (Downtown)

Next to arrive was the cold ma po doufu with hot chili broad bean paste and crispy leeks ($5). 

Little Sister - Los Angeles (Downtown)

My favorite of the Introductions was the “Ma La Beef Tartare” with pear, pine nuts, quail egg, and bone marrow vin, served with cassava chips ($12).

Little Sister - Los Angeles (Downtown)

And finally, superb pork, shrimp, and crab dumplings in a spicy black vin dressing with chives, spinach, peanuts ($10). The toothsome texture of the wrappers was especially memorable.

Little Sister - Los Angeles (Downtown)

Next we moved on to the bo tai chanh, lime-cooked beef with rau ram (Vietnamese coriander), basil, mint, onions, fried shallots, and nuoc cham dressing ($13). It was so fresh, so light, so satisfying.

Little Sister - Los Angeles (Downtown)

I was pleased as punch to see the “Viet Coconut Braised Pork & Quail Eggs ($13) on the menu. While thit kho is my all-time favorite Vietnamese dish, it’s usually considered too homey to be served in a restaurant setting. Little Sister’s version featured tender hunks of pork and itty bitty quail eggs in a fish sauce-spiked caramel sauce. Eaten with rice, it was terrific.  

Little Sister - Los Angeles (Downtown)

Our final savory item was the #SGV Special banh mi ($11) with pate, grilled pork, and cold cuts, as well as the usual accoutrements: pickled daikon and carrot, cucumber, cilantro, jalapeno, and house-made egg yolk mayonnaise spread. Served on the side was a small bowl of pho broth.

From the crisp-airy bread to the abundant and flavorful meat, I liked everything about this sandwich.

Little Sister - Los Angeles (Downtown)

For dessert, we dug into the Vietnamese Coffee Flan accented with palmiers (the Unofficial Cookie of Vietnamese People) and condensed milk creme ($8)…

Little Sister - Los Angeles (Downtown)

…as well as the warm coconut bun with condensed milk, black sesame, and peanuts ($8). While I preferred the java jolted flan to the warm bun, both desserts were fitting conclusions to an excellent feast at Little Sister.

I look forward to returning with my favorite Vietnamese food lover in tow: The Astronomer.

Little Sister
523 West 7th Street
Los Angeles, CA 90017
Phone: 213-628-3146

Downtown L.A., you are delicious:

 

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